Home Gardening 
on 08/19/08
Pink Tree Peony
List of Topics and Websites
How To Establish
A Wildflower Meadow 
Remove grass and weeds.
Mow or cut existing vegetation close to the ground. If you live where summers are routinely sunny and hot, you can clean your soil of weeds by solarizing it (using the sun's heat to kill the seeds). After mowing, till soil, water thoroughly, then cover soil with sheets of clear 2- or 4-mil plastic.
(A double layer, separated by a garden house for instance, increases effectiveness.) Seal the edges with soil or stones. Sunlight passes through the plastic and heats the soil, which stays warm. Depending upon the amount of sun and how hot it is, the process can take as little as two weeks, or as many as six. As a general guide, gardeners in the south where sun is abundant can solarize soil in the least time. The goal is to raise soil temperatures 3 to 6 inches deep above 100F. Although commercial growers use the process on a large scale, for home gardeners it's most practical for beds of 1,000 square feet or less.
Once plastic is removed, rotary-till or fork over the area. Water, then wait two weeks for any remaining weed seeds to germinate. When they do, cultivate the area lightly. Where solarizing the soil is impractical for a large bed or in a cool climate, repeat cultivations can clear the area of weeds. Till the soil, water, wait two weeks, and till again. Repeat this process until few weeds germinate, up to six weeks.
Whichever process you use, it may be necessary to dig or rake out persistent weeds.
Prepare the soil.
Once soil is mostly weed-free, spread 1 to 2 inches of compost over the cleared area, moisten lightly, and rotary-till or fork it into the top 3 to 6 inches of soil. Again, it is prudent to wait a week or so so, then till or hoe to kill any germinating weeds. Rake smooth.
Determine the right seed mix.
Natural, low-maintenance meadows contain a mixture of native grasses with annual and perennial flowering plants. Instead of such a mixture, you might prefer all flowers or all grasses. In either case, it's important to choose a mix that will thrive in your particular sun, soil, and climate conditions. Suppliers of wildflower seed mixes can advise you on the best mixes for your area.
If your meadow receives fewer than 6 hours of direct sun per day, choose a mix for part sun or shade. Mixes that contain only wildflowers usually need reseeding the first few years until the plants produce enough seed to become self-sustaining.
Sow seeds.
Sowing in mid- to late summer eliminates many of the sprouting weeds that often plague spring plantings, but is useful only for grasses and perennial flowers. If you choose a mix containing many annual flowers, plant in early spring. Using a broadcast spreader, sow seeds at the rate recommended for the mix, and rake gently into the top inch of soil. To allow the plants to become well established, keep the soil evenly moist for the first growing season. Pull up invasive weeds, and tree and shrub seedlings. In subsequent years, plant additional perennials and grasses to fill gaps and replace annuals.
Website:Seed Mixes for a Wildflower Garden
Butterfly Glad Mixture
THE HARDY FERN FOUNDATION
Perennial Tulip Collection
BANNA LEAF TOADHOUSE
Solar Toadstool Toad House
Solar Cottage Toad House
Storybook Toad House
A Guide to The Feng Shui Garden More Gardens Solutions
Inspired by The Feng Shui Garden, by Gill Hale (Storey Books, 1998).
A Feng Shui yard or garden is one in which the energies of the earth and cosmos and the cycles of living things run their natural course. A yard, therefore, is an “unnatural” environment. The essence of a Feng Shui garden is that it should follow the natural way as far as possible by respecting the landscape and the spirit of the place.
Become aware of how to enhance beneficial chi, or energy, in your garden, and create all that you could wish for:
Find the true entrance to your garden, and then follow the “Bagua Position” for placement of recommendations to enhance the chi in that area.
Career or Life Journey
Element: Water
Colors: Black and dark blue
Bagua Position: Center front
Guidance: Make sure to remove obstacles such as overhanging branches, prickles, squeaking hinges, and make sure you have clear passage.
Relationships
Element: Earth
Colors: Pink
Bagua Position: Back right
Guidance: Groups of plants; pairs of trees, flower pots, or statuary.
Family & Ancient Wisdom
Element: Wood
Color: Green
Bagua Position: Left middle
Guidance: A table for family meals, or other family get-togethers.
Wealth
Element: Wood
Color: Blue
Bagua Position: Back left
Guidance: Compost
Helpful People Element: Metal
Colors: White and silver
Bagua Position: Front right
Guidance: Birds, bird houses, statuary
Creative /Children
Element: Metal
Colors: White or silver
Bagua Position: Right middle
Guidance: Children’s play area; creations such as garden sculpture
Knowledge
Element: Earth
Colors: Blue and sometimes yellow.
Bagua Position: Front left
Guidance: Meditation garden; seedlings, flowers, vegetables.
Fame
Element: Fire
Color: Red
Bagua Position: Back middle
Guidance: Your best accomplishments (flowers, sculptures, etc.); moon gate (round or square openings in hedges, walls, etc.)
Tai Chi
Element: Earth
Colors: Yellow or gold
Bagua Position: Center middle
Guidance: Keep the area clear.
Woman's Care Garden 
Plus Herbal Remedie Recipes More Gardens Solutions
Adapted from Herbal Remedy Gardens, by Dorie Byers.
These plants are beautiful when grouped together, and will provide women with some of the remedies they need.
Simple Solution:
The woman's care garden features potted herbs in willow or twig baskets of the appropriate size, placed in front of ground-planted fennel.
One container holds
the lemon balm and chamomile plants,
the other contains the red clover.
You can place Spanish moss on the surface and edges of each container that is nested in its basket to blend the edges and enhance the serenity of this spot.
Container Garden Plants
3 fennel
1 lemon balm
7 German chamomile
1 red clover
Here are recipes with which to use your herbs:
MONTHLY RELIEF TEA
Drinking this infusion will help relieve menstrual cramps, but take no more than 2-3 cups a day
2 teaspoons dried lemon-balm leaves
1 cup boiling water
Steep the leaves in the boiling water, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes. Strain, then slowly sip the infusion.
DUAL-PURPOSE TEA
Sipping this infusion will relieve nausea and stomach upset, and lessen menstrual cramps.
Do not drink more than 2 cups a day.
2 teaspoons dried German chamomile flowers
1 cup boiling water
Steep the flowers in the boiling water, covered, for 15 minutes. Strain, then slowly sip the infusion.
WOMAN'S RED CLOVER TONIC
This infusion, when sipped, will act as a tonic specially suited for women.
1 teaspoon dried red clover blossoms
1 cup boiling water
Add the blossoms to the boiling water. Cover and steep for 15 minutes. Strain, then sip the infusion.
NURSING MOTHER'S TEA
Drinking a tea made with fennel helps to promote the secretion of breast milk in nursing mothers.
1 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds
1 cup boiling water
Mix the seeds with the boiling water. Cover and steep for 10 minutes. Strain, and sip the infusion.
Soil Testing 
More Vegetables Solutions
Adapted from Straight-Ahead Organic,by Shepherd Ogden
Immediately after breaking ground for a new garden, you should test the oil.You can buy kits to do this, or buy a soil sample pouch at a garden center and send a sample of your soil to a state laboratory for testing.
Simple Solution:
To make sure that your test sample represents actual conditions at the plants' root level, take three or four samples from around the whole garden plot.
Don't take a sample from any place that was recently fertilized or limited; it will distort the results.
To get a clean sample from root level, take a shovelful of soil out of the ground and set it aside, then slice another section, only an inch or so thick, from the side of the hole. With a penknife or scrap of wood, scrape away the top inch or so, and take your sample from a one-or-two-inch-wide vertical section of what remains.
Mix that small bit with the other samples from around the area to be tested; all roots, leaves, rocks, and other material should be removed, and the test ample should be dry and fully pulverized before mailing.
One of the most critical aspects of a soil test is the pH report, which tells you if your soil is overly acid or alkaline. This is important, because all nutrients are more or less available depending on the pH balance of the soil.
On a scale of 0 to 14, each whole number represents a tenfold difference from the next whole number.
Thus, taking the number 7 as neutral(which it is on the pH scale),
a pH of 6 indicates tat the soil is ten times as acidic, while a pH of 8 indicates it is ten times as alkaline.
The soil report will usually include a recommendation of how much lime (to raise the pH) or sulfur (to lower the pH) should be add, and in what form.
Keep in mind: if the pH of your soil is more than two points away from neutral, you should break the application of lime or sulfur into two or more applications to avoid shocking the resident soil life with too radical a change.
Once an ideal pH of 6.0 to 6.8 (at which the widest range of nutrients is optimally available to most plants) has been established, an ongoing program of manure and compost applications will remove the need for any further attention to soil pH. Except for special conditions, the latest research backs up this belief.
Only if your soil is of the most extreme acid or alkaline nature, or your garden is subject to serious acid rain and snowfall, should an ongoing program of pH balancing be necessary.
Organic Gardening 101 
More Trees and Shrubs Solutions
by Hilary Stamper, Care2.com product manager and director of promotions
Why Organic? By using pesticides and fertilizers on our lawns and gardens, we are responsible for almost 10 percent of our common water pollution. It IS possible to have a beautiful garden and/or yard without harm to you, your family, pets, or the environment.
What is Organic Gardening?
Organic gardening involves growing plants in soil that contains organic, natural substances, uncontaminated by chemically formulated fertilizers or pesticides. Organic gardening emphasizes a holistic approach to cultivation. Ideally, it includes animals, insects, plants and soil to produce a "sustainable" food supply. "Sustainable" means that over time, the resources will be able to replenish themselves and thrive. Pest reduction and soil enhancement strategies can involve attention to soil quality, beneficial insects, and barrier plants.
Why Care2 Garden Organically?
First, the health of the earth's habitat is very important. Pesticides are poisons designed to ward off pests. Unfortunately, pesticides also harm beneficial insects, fish, and birds. Runoff from chemical fertilizers and pesticides soaks into groundwater and washes into streams, lakes, and oceans. This can kill whole lakes and ponds as well as all the wildlife and fish that depend on these water sources.
Bioaccumulation means that pesticides build up across the flood chain. Animals eat other animals, incrementally accumulating pesticides in their systems. If we stop using these toxins, we can mitigate this deadly cycle.
Second, human health is affected by non-organic gardening because pesticides are poisons designed to harm living things; using them allows killing agents to enter your immediate environment. Some research links pesticide use to health problems ranging from mental impairment to cancer to hormonal imbalances and lowered sperm counts.
Tomato Trellises 
More Vegetables Solutions
Adapted from Straight-Ahead Organic, by Shepherd Ogden
Supports, plant cages or trellises, are an integral part of vegetable garden equipment. Many crops are not only more productive, but more resistant to disease when grown on supports, whether it’s something as simple as a stake in the ground, or expensive store-bought pipe-and-mesh trellises for trailing and climbing plants.
To make your own wire cages for tomatoes, buy concrete reinforcing wire (available from most building supply stores).
The conventional directions are to cut a six-foot section of the five-foot-wide wire, and bend it around to make a column that surrounds the plant. This should be anchored with a stout stake against wind.
The Quonset Tomato Trellis Method A better solution, using the same materials, was taught to me by a French seed salesman who visited our garden one summer. Instead of taking the concrete wire and making a column, you cut the wire to any manageable length and then bend it lengthwise, over the rows, in an arch. This way, as the plants grow they will pass up through the mesh and rest on top of it, safely off the ground, but absolutely certain not to blow over.
-- Whatever kind of wire you use, and however you use it, though, make sure that the mesh is a minimum of five inches square so you can reach through to harvest any fruit growing inside.
--These wire Quonsets are widely adaptable to a number of smaller crops as well. A five-foot section does an excellent job supporting peppers and eggplants (as well as annuals grown for cut flowers!), and a four-foot section, spanning a row of snap beans, will keep even a full crop of pods up off the ground, thus preventing losses to rot.
--An added benefit is that you can drape plastic or fabric covers over these makeshift "Quonset" trellises for the first few weeks to encourage early plant growth.
Tall Crop Systems For taller crops, one adaptable system is made from vertical wooden posts with lengths of electrical conduit running horizontally between them. All that is required for this kind of trellis is a collection of electrical conduit sections of convenient length and solid, sharpened 2x2-inch wooden poles—two, four, and eight feet long—that can be strung up with untreated garden twine in various configurations.
Helpful Hints:
I use untreated twine so that, once the crop is harvested, I can simply cut down the lines, with the plants still attached, roll up the whole affair, and throw it on the compost pile. Treated twine will not rot as fast, and puts biocides in the compost.
It is particularly important to stake tomatoes. While many garden centers sell inexpensive conical wire tomato cages, most are way too small for an indeterminate tomato, and any tomato plant that is small enough for them probably doesn’t need the support. You can make better wire cages easily and inexpensively.
Beautiful Wildflower Gardens 
More Flowers Solutions
by Annie Berthold-Bond, Care2.com Producer, Green Living Channels
Native species gardens are healthy habitats. Within their native range, all plants adapt to resist damage from climate, insects, and disease.
By helping native wildflowers gain a foothold, you can reduce the threat of invasive exotic weeds - such as purple loosestrife - from taking over the ecological niches of native plants. And the pleasure we receive from the beauty of the flowers is just tremendous.
Find out how to start your own easy-care wildflower garden.
You can find out what plants are native to your land easily: Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center (formerly the National Wildlife Research Center offers a searchable native plant database, as well a searchable state-by-state resource guide.
Avoid digging up plants in the wild. They may be endangered species!
Investigate sources of native plants and seeds. Most seed companies sell regional wildflower seed mixes.
Seven Guidelines for Planting
Choose appropriate seeds for appropriate sites. For example, shade-loving plants should be planted in the shade.
Plant seeds in the spring or fall.
Turn the soil before planting.
Once you have prepared the soil, wait a few weeks before sowing the seeds, and pull out the young, new weeds before you do!
Broadcast seeds (throw them evenly over the ground). Some suggests combining the seeds half and half with sand before broadcasting to make the spreading of seeds more uniform. Broadcast by hand, or buy a broadcast seeder container from a store such as Vermont Wildflower Farm
Push the seeds down firmly with your shoes.
Make sure the soil is kept damp enough for the seeds to germinate.
Helpful Hints:
A mix of native plants in your garden can help establish the wild plant community that supports native animals. Some traditional landscape gardens, such as the butterfly garden—a place rich with native plants to attract native butterflies—demonstrate this logic.
Five Simple Home Remedies - Yard & Garden More Outdoor Pest Control Solutions
Adapted from A Year on The Garden Path, by Carolyn Herriot (Earthfuture/Lantern, 2005).
So often the home garden pest control remedies work as well or better than the chemical counterparts, and with the added bonus that with these formulas made of kitchen cupboard ingredients, you don’t need to worry about poisoning yourself, your pets, or your garden!
Print out these five standby remedies for yard and garden, including a natural fungicide for mildew and black spot:
Simple Soap Solution
2 Tbs. soap flakes
2 litre warm water
Dissolve soap flakes in water and apply directly to infested areas every 5-7 days. Note: Too much soap can cause burning on plants.
Pests affected: aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies.
Garlic Oil Spray
10-15 cloves of minced garlic
2 tsp. mineral oil
600 ml water
1 tsp. liquid dish soap
Soak garlic in mineral oil for 24 hours. Strain garlic out and add 600 ml water and 1 tsp. liquid dish soap. Mix thoroughly. Spray plants with this solution.
Pests affected: Aphids, spider ites, and whiteflies
Fungicide for Mildew and Black Spot
1 tsp. baking soda
1 litre water
1 tsp. soap flakes
Dissolve baking soda in 1 litre of warm water.
Add soap flakes to help solution cling to leaves. Remove infected leaves from plant, then spray top and bottom of remaining leaf surfaces to control spread of the disease.
Sticky Traps
1-2 Tbsp. Vaseline or preferably, Unpetroleum Jelly
4”x8” plastic cards or cardboard
Waterproof yellow paint
Apply paint onto both sides of the card and let it dry. Once the paint is dry, apply
Unpetroleum Jelly liberally over both sides of the card. Place the card just above the plant canopy.
Pests controlled:Flying pests, such as fungus gnats, and whiteflies.
Sowbug Traps
1 small plastic container with lid
2 Tbsp. cornmeal
Cut a small hole at the base of the container, large enough and close enough to the bottom to allow sowbugs to climb in. Place cornmeal in container. Place container into area infested with sowbugs. After feeding on the cornmeal, the bugs will drink and then explode! (Replace cornmeal frequently.)
PLANTING PHASES OF THE MOON
August 2006
1 Good day for planting aboveground crops. Excellent for sowing grains, winter wheat, oats and rye. Plant flowers.
2-3 Plant peas, beans, tomatoes, peppers and other aboveground crops in southern Florida, California and Texas. Extra good for leafy vegetables. Plant seedbeds.
4-5 Cut winter wood, do clearing and plowing, but no planting.
6-7 A good time to plant aboveground crops.
8-9 Barren days, fine for killing plant pests.
10-11 Favorable days for planting root crops, fine for vine crops.
12-13-14 Barren days, do no planting.
15-16 Root crops that can be planted now will yield well.
17-18 Any seed planted now will tend to rot.
19-20-21 Most favorable days for planting beets, onions, turnips and other root crops. Plant seedbeds and flower gardens.
22-23-24-25-26 A barren time. Best for killing weeds, briars, poison ivy and other plant pests. Clear woodlots and fencerows.
27-28 Good days for planting aboveground crops. Excellent for sowing grains, winter wheat, oats and rye. Plant flowers.
29-30-31 Plant peas, beans, tomatoes, peppers and other aboveground crops in southern Florida, California and Texas. Extra good for leafy vegetables. Plant seedbeds.
September 2006
1-2 Good days for planting root crops.
3-4 Seeds planted now tend to rot in ground.
5-6-7 Fine planting days for fall potatoes, turnips, onions, carrots, beets and other root crops. Also plant seedbeds and flower gardens.
8-9-10-11-12 A most barren period, best for killing plant pests or doing chores around the farm.
13-14 Good days for planting peas, beans, tomatoes, peppers and other aboveground crops in southern Florida, Texas and California. Excellent for sowing grains, hay and forage crops. Plant flowers.
15-16-17 Excellent time for planting aboveground crops that can be planted now, including leafy vegetables, which will do well. Start seedbeds.
18-19 Clear fencerows, woodlots and fields, but do no planting.
20-21 Any aboveground crops that can be planted now will do well.
22-23 Poor planting days. Kill plant pests.
24-25 Favorable days for planting aboveground crops, extra good for vine crops.
26-27 Seeds planted now will grow poorly and yield little.
28-29 Good days for planting root crops.
30 Seeds planted now tend to rot in ground.
August 2006
• Bake 1, 6, 7, 27, 28
• Can Fruits and Vegetables 10, 11, 19-21
• Dry Fruits and Vegetables 12-14
• Cut Firewood 1-8, 23-31
• Cut Hair to Increase Growth 2, 3, 6, 7, 29-31
• Mow to Increase Growth 1-8, 28-31
• Mow to Retard Growth 9-22
• Castrate Farm Animals 4-11
• Harvest 15-22
• Prune Trees No Good Days
• Wean 4-11
• Hunt 1, 23-30
• Fish Mornings: 8, 19, 20, 21 Evenings: 9-11
• Quit a Habit or Smoking 9, 12-14, 17, 18, 22
How to garden by moon phases
The moon moves through a complete cycle every 29 days. For moon gardening purposes, this cycle is divided into four quarters or phases. The term phase refers to the moon's apparent shape as viewed from earth during the month. To plant by the moon phases you will need an almanac or calendar, such as Ed Hume's Planting Guide, that lists the exact time and date of the moon phases.
The lunar month starts with the new moon, also called "the dark of the moon. From the new moon to the first quarter and from the first quarter to the full moon, the moon appears to grow from nothing to a crescent and then to a full circle at mid-month. These are the increasing or waxing phases.
Increasing Light -- New moon to full moon
Examples of garden chores to do by the light of the moon:
(NOTE: These are general guidelines. I highly recommend referring to Ed Hume's Planting Guide for specific planting tasks):
Repot and groom houseplants
Sow seeds of plants that grow above ground (for helpful tips on starting your own seeds, click here.)
Fertilize
Graft fruit trees
Plant evergreen and deciduous trees
The decreasing or waning phases are when the moon "shrinks" from the full moon down to the new moon (darkness). As the moon wanes during the 3rd and 4th quarters, this is a good time to prune plants, as the water table is diminishing and so less sap will flow out of the cut ends. The plants are said to orient themselves toward their roots, making this a favorable time for planting, transplanting and harvesting root crops in general. The 4th quarter is the most dormant period and is good for chores like weeding.
Decreasing Light -- Full moon to dark of the moon
Examples of garden chores to do by the dark of the moon:
(NOTE: These are general guidelines. I highly recommend referring to Ed Hume's Planting Guide for specific planting tasks).
Plant bulbs
Plant crops that grow below the ground, such as potatoes, carrots
Cultivate weeds
Plant biennials and perennials because they need strong roots
Eliminate slugs
Prune shrubs
How is sowing, transplanting and harvesting linked to phases of the moon? One theory is that during the light (waxing) of the Moon, sap is thought to flow more strongly, filling plants with vitality and energy, favoring the planting and harvesting of crops that mature above ground.
What the moon gardening movement currently lacks is a body of modern scientific work that validates its benefits...
CRITTER GUARD
Butterfly Bait - How To Formula More Nature Activities Solutions
Adapted from The Butterfly Garden, by Matthew Tekulsky (Harvard Common Press, 1985).
We love butterflies! They have lifted human hearts for millennia with their fragile, colorful beauty. There are specific flowers that butterflies love, but what if you don’t have the space or time to grow butterfly-attracting plants? We can make Butterfly Bait! Because not all butterflies are only attracted to flower-nectar, this magic stuff will attract butterflies to your yard, even if all you have is a balcony.
Just wait until you find out the ingredients of Butterfly Bait! They’re not as pretty as the butterflies, that’s for sure--but this magic goop will have White Admirals, Mourning Cloaks, Viceroys and many others flocking to your place. Here’s the formula:
Many butterflies prefer rotting fruit, tree sap, dung, carrion, urine, and other non-nectar sources of nutrients. You can allow fruit from your fruit trees to decay on the ground, leave your pet’s droppings where they lie, or place a bit of raw meat or fish in a discreet part of your garden.
And here is the formula for Butterfly Bait:
INGREDIENTS
1 pound sugar
1 or 2 cans stale beer
3 mashed overripe banana
1 cup of molasses or syrup
1 cup of fruit juice
1 shot of rum
Mix all ingredients well and paint on trees, fence posts, rocks, or stumps--or simply soak a sponge in the mixture and hang from a tree-limb.
For more information about butterflies, including some fascinating facts, and a listing of plants that will attract them, see Care2’s How to Attract Butterflies.
How To Attract Butterflies More Backyard Wildlife Solutions
Adapted from The Family Butterfly Book, by Rick Mikula.
Butterflies, with their gorgeous colors and lilting flight, are such a joy to watch. They add so much beauty to our summers, like seeing flowers flying.
It’s easy to invite more butterflies to make a seasonal stop in your yard. Find out which plants they just can't resist - and learn a few fun facts about butterflies that you may not know, right here.
Here are 20 plants that will invite butterflies to your yard!
20 FAVORITE PERENNIAL PLANTS FOR BUTTERFLIES
Asters: late summer to fall 
Bee balm (bergamot): summer through fall 
Butterfly weed: summer through fall 
Clover (white or red): summer to fall 
Coreopsis: summer to fall
Dianthus: spring to fall
Lavender: summer
Lupine: late spring to early summer
Mints: all summer
Passionflower: summer to fall
Phlox: summer to fall
Purple coneflower: summer to fall
Sage: summer to fall
Salvia: summer to fall
Scabiosa 'Butterfly blue':
summer through fall
Shasta daisy: summer
Thistle: late spring through fall
Violet: spring
Yarrow: summer
Fun Facts ABout Butterflies
Have you ever heard that if you touch a butterfly, you'll rub off the powder from its wings, and it will die? Or that if a butterfly gets a drop of water on it, it will drown? Ever hear that a torn or broken butterfly wing will grow back? And everyone knows that all butterflies go to Mexico for the winter, right?
Actually, none of these statements is true! A lot of myths like these were probably started with the best intentions, so that people wouldn't harm butterflies.
The truth is,that butterflies have evolved to survive and thrive in extreme conditions. They exist everywhere in the world except for Antarctica. Butterflies are definitely stronger than they look: many species migrate thousands of miles every year, and not just to Mexico!
Make a Hummingbird Heaven in Your Yard 
How To More Backyard Wildlife Solutions
Adapted from The Hummingbird Garden, by Matthew Tekulsky (Harvard Common Press, 1990).
Hummingbirds are such amazing creatures, with their exquisite jewel-like colors and swift darting flight. When we see them, we are irresistibly reminded of fairies, and their presence in our yards always seems like a kind of blessing. And it turns out to be easier to attract them than you think.
Here is a listing of some of the hummingbird’s favorite flowers and shrubs, plus a description of an easy-to-make hummingbird feeder that really works. Find out how to make your yard a hummingbird heaven, right here:
Some favored cultivated flowers and flowering trees and shrubs:
acacia, apple, crabapple, azalea, begonia, bird of paradise, bleeding heart, blood-red trumpet vine, bougainvillea, camellia, catnip, Chinese lantern, columbine, crape myrtle, dahlia, daylily, delphinium, eucalyptus, evening primrose, flame vine, foxglove, fuchsia, geranium, gladiolus, globe thistle, ground ivy, hibiscus, hollyhock, honeysuckle, hosta, hummingbird bush, impatiens, iris, jasmine, lavender, lilac, lily, lobelia, lupine, mint, morning glory, nasturtium, periwinkle, petunia, phlox, pink, primrose, rhododendron, rose of Sharon, sage, snapdragon, Spicebush,sweet William, verbena, weigela, wisteria, zinnia.
Some favored wildflowers:
Bee balm, wild bergamot, bluebells, bluebonnet, bouncing bet, scarlet Bavaria, butterfly weed, columbine, currant, desert bell, figwort, firecracker flower, fireweed, honeysuckle, jewelweed, black locust, mountain laurel, paintbrush, penstemon, redbud, snowberry, Solomon’s seal, thistle, trumpet flower, wallflower, wood betony.
An easy hummingbird feeder:
A small glass bottle with a rubber stopper that fits snugly into the bottle’s mouth; a narrow curved glass tube that is placed in a hole in the center of the rubber stopper; a red plastic tip with a small hole in the center of it that covers the end of the plastic tube.
Fill this feeder with:
Sugar-water solution
Four parts water to 1 part granulated sugar. Boil the mixture for a couple of minutes to dissolve the sugar and destroy harmful microorganisms. (Add a little extra water to your solution so it doesn’t get too concentrated in boiling. Too-sweet solution is harmful to hummingbirds.)
Excess solution may be safely stored in the refrigerator for about a week.
AVOID honey, artificial sweeteners, or any food coloring in your sugar-water. And please be sure to clean and refill your feeders at least once a week--more often if feeders are placed in direct sunlight-- to prevent the growth of molds and bacteria which could be fatal to your hummingbirds.
Hang the feeders among the plants or trees in your yard.
Weed Control More Miscellaneous Guides Solutions
Excerpted from Grow Smart, Grow Safe, A Consumer Guide to Lawn and Garden Products, by Philip Dickey, Washington Toxics Coalition
Lawn and garden chemicals include some of the most hazardous products in the home. Products that you use to kill insects, weeds, and fungal diseases may also be toxic to children, pets, birds, fish, and beneficial insects such as bees and ladybugs.
An environmental rating system for commercial lawn and products. Grow Smart, Grow Safe rates 350 lawn and garden products—including 93 commercially available weed killers—according to environmental concerns such as short and long-term health hazards, hazards to aquatic life, birds, bees, or pets, its half-life in the soil, and if it is a water pollution hazard.
Hands-on prevention, control options, and weeding tools. Mulches, hoes, cultivators, weed barriers, and a some tolerance for weeds are all viable alternatives to frequent use of weed killers, and all are discussed in Grow Smart, Grow Safe.
Dandelion
Dandelion
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A flowering dandelion
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Scientific classification
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Kingdom:
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Plantae
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 |
Division:
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Magnoliophyta
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Class:
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Magnoliopsida
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Order:
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Asterales
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Family:
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Asteraceae
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Tribe:
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Cichorieae
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Genus:
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Taraxacum
Cass.
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Species
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 |
The common name Dandelion is given to members of the genus Taraxacum, a large genus of flowering plants in the family Asteraceae. In the Asteraceae (formerly Compositae) the "flowers" are morphologically a composite flower head consisting of many tiny flowers called florets. Dandelions are native to Africa, Asia, and Europe, and have been widely introduced elsewhere. Many Taraxacum species produce seeds asexually so that seeds can be produced without pollination that are genetically identical to the parent plant.[1]
Description
A dandelion clock.
Dandelions are tap-rooted biennial or perennial herbaceous plants, native to temperate areas of the Northern Hemisphere of the Old World. They are commonly known as weeds or ruderals. The genus is taxonomically very complex, with numerous macrospecies, and polyploidy is also common; over 250 apomictic microspecies have been recorded in the British Isles alone (Richards 1972). Some botanists take a much narrower viewpoint, and only accept a total of about 60 species.
The leaves are 5-25 cm long, simple and basal, entire or lobed, forming a rosette above the central taproot. As the leaves grow outward they push down the surrounding vegetation, such as grass in a lawn, which kills other plants by cutting off their access to sunlight. A bright yellow flower head, which is open in the daytime but closes at night, is borne singly on a hollow stem (scape) which rises 4-30 cm above the leaves and exudes a milky sap (latex) when broken. A rosette may produce several flowering stems at a time. The flower head is 2-5 cm in diameter and consists entirely of ray florets. The flower head matures into a spherical "clock" (also known as "wishies") containing many single-seeded fruits (achenes). Each achene is attached to a pappus of fine hairs, which enable wind-aided dispersal over long distances.
Dandelions are used as food plants by the larvae of some species of Lepidoptera (butterflies and moths). See List of Lepidoptera that feed on dandelions.
Away from their native regions, dandelions have become established in the Americas, Australia, and New Zealand, and are now common throughout all temperate regions.
History
Dandelions evolved about thirty million years ago in Eurasia[1].
They were used by humans for food and herbalism for much of recorded history.
Origin of the name
The English name dandelion is a corruption of the French dent de lion[2] meaning lion's tooth, referring to the coarsely-toothed leaves. The names of the plant have the same meaning in several other European languages, such as Italian dente di leone, Spanish diente de león, Portuguese dente-de-leão, Norwegian Løvetann, and German Löwenzahn.
In modern French the plant is named pissenlit, which means "urinate in bed", apparently referring to its diuretic properties. Likewise, "pissabeds" is an English folkname for this plant, piscialletto in Italian and in Spanish it is known as the meacamas. Also, in the dialect of Veneto, Italy, it is known as pisacan, which translates to "dog pisses", referring to how common they are found at the side of pavements (source: Giulia Zanetti, native of Veneto), and in the dialect of Novara, Italy, it is known as soffiando, which translates to "blowing", and refers to the habit of blowing the seeds from the stalk (source: Silvia Paracchini, native of Novara).
In Turkish the dandelion is called karahindiba meaning "black endive".
Hungarian names are kutyatej ("dog milk", referring to the white sap found in the stem) and gyermekláncfu ("child's chain grass", referring to the habit of children to pick dandelions, remove the flowers, and make links out of the stems by "plugging" the narrow top end of the stem into the wider bottom end).
Lithuanian name kiaulpiene can be translated as "sow Sonchus" (because plant Sonchus that has white sap also in Lithuanian is piene (from pienas "milk)) or "sow milk". In Finnish it is called 'voikukka' ("butter flower") referring to its buttery colour. In Swedish it is called 'maskros' ("worm rose"), likely referring to it's low status (being mostly considered a weed) despite a fairly pleasant appearance.
Seeds
A microscopic view of a pappus from a dandelion clock.
The flower head is surrounded by bracts (sometimes mistakenly called sepals) in two series. The inner bracts are erect until the seeds mature, then flex down to allow the seeds to disperse; the outer bracts are always reflexed downward. Some species drop the "parachute" (called a pappus, modified sepals) from the achenes. Between the pappus and the achene, there is a stalk called a beak, which elongates as the fruit matures. The beak breaks off from the achene quite easily. After pollination, the dandelion flower dries out for about 1-2 days and then the seed-bearing parachutes expand and lift out of the dried flower head. The dried part of the flower drops off and the parachute ball opens into a full sphere. The parachute drops off when the seed strikes an obstacle. Often dandelions can be observed growing in a crevice near a wall, because the blowing fruits hit the wall and the feathery pappi drop off, sending the dandelion seeds to the base of the obstacle where they germinate. After the seed is released, the parachutes lose their feathered structure and take on a fuzzy, cotton-like appearance, often called "dandelion snow." While it was probably not developed evolutionarily, Dandelions seeds are often dispersed by young children, who often blow on or kick the clock.

Seed development and genetics
A microscopic view of a dandelion clock showing the pericarp and the achenes.
As previously mentioned, the taxonomical situation of the genus is quite complex, mainly because many dandelions are genetically triploid. An odd number of chromosomes usually is associated with sterility, but dandelions with this karyotype can reproduce without fertilization, by a process called apomixis.[3] In these individuals flowers are inefficient vestigial structures, although they may still produce a small percentage of fertile pollen, keeping some genetic contact with sexual individuals. Diploid dandelions develop seeds after cross-pollination and are outcrossing, or self-incompatible. In most zones of southern Europe and Asia, dandelion populations are sexual or mixed sexual-apomictic, while in northern countries only triploid and tetraploid apomicts are present, as is in the zones where it is not native. This seems to be linked to higher temperatures, survival of pre-glacial populations and human impact, but the subject is still being studied.
There are usually 54 to 172 seeds produced per head, but a single plant can produce more than 2000 seeds a year. It has been estimated that more than 97 000 000 seeds/hectare could be produced every year by a dense stand of dandelions.
Uses
The dandelion's taproot, on left in this drawing, makes this plant very difficult to uproot; the top of the plant breaks away, but the root stays in the ground and can sprout again.
See also: Medicinal properties of dandelion
While the dandelion is considered a weed by many gardeners and lawn owners, the plant does have several culinary uses, and the specific name officinalis refers to its value as a medicinal herb. Dandelions are grown commercially on a small scale as a leaf vegetable. The leaves (called dandelion greens) can be eaten cooked or raw in various forms, such as in soup or salad. They are probably closest in character to mustard greens. Usually the young leaves and unopened buds are eaten raw in salads, while older leaves are cooked. Raw leaves have a slightly bitter taste. Dandelion salad is often accompanied with hard boiled eggs. The leaves are high in vitamin A, vitamin C and iron, carrying more iron and calcium than spinach.[4]
Dandelion flowers can be used to make dandelion wine, for which there are many recipes.[5] It has also been used in a saison ale called Pissenlit (literally "wet the bed" in French) made by Brasserie Fantôme in Belgium. Another recipe using the plant is dandelion flower jam. Ground roasted dandelion root can be used as a coffee substitute. Dandelion root is a registered drug in Canada, sold principally as a diuretic. A leaf decoction can be drunk to "purify the blood", for the treatment of anemia, jaundice, and also for nervousness. Drunk before meals, dandelion root coffee is claimed to stimulate digestive functions and function as a liver tonic. "Dandelion and Burdock" is a soft drink that has long been popular in the United Kingdom with authentic recipes sold by health food shops. It is unclear whether cheaper supermarket versions actually contain extracts of either plant.
The milky latex has been used as a mosquito repellent;[6] the milk is also applied to warts, helping get rid of them without damaging the surrounding skin.[7]
Yellow or green dye colours can be obtained from the flowers but little colour can be obtained from the roots of the plant.[8]
A plate of sauteed dandelion greens, with Wehani rice
Antioxidant properties
Dandelion contains luteolin, an antioxidant, and has demonstrated antioxidant properties without cytotoxicity.[9][10]
Caffeic acid and carcinogenicity
Caffeic acid is a secondary plant metabolite produced in dandelion, yarrow, horsetail and whitethorn. Despite its name, it is unrelated to caffeine. Recent studies have revealed this acid may be carcinogenic. Caffeic acid was tested for carcinogenicity by oral administration in mice, it produced renal cell adenomas in females, and a high incidence of renal tubular cell hyperplasia in animals of each sex.[11] However, more recent research shows that bacteria present in the rodents' intestines may alter the formation of metabolites of caffeic acid.[12][13] There have been no known ill-effects of caffeic acid in humans.
Bees
Dandelion are an important plant for bees. Not only is the appearance of their flowers used as an indicator that the honey bee season is starting, but they are also an important source of nectar and pollen early in the season.[citation needed]
False dandelions
Macro photo of dandelion seed dispersal.
Dandelions are so similar to catsears (Hypochoeris) that catsears are also known as "false dandelions." Both plants carry similar flowers which form into windborne seeds. However, catsear flowering stems are forked and solid, whereas dandelions possess unforked stems that are hollow. Both plants have a rosette of leaves and a central taproot. However, the leaves of dandelions are jagged in appearance, whereas those of catsear are more lobe-shaped and hairy.
Other plants with similar flowers include hawkweeds (Hieracium) and hawksbeards (Crepis). These are both readily distinguished by their branched flowering stems.
Marvelous Mulch More Vegetables Solutions
by Annie Berthold-Bond, Care2.com Producer, Green Living Channels
Mulch protects the soil, prevents weeds, and provides nutrients to make rich, loamy topsoil. It keeps too much water out, and enough water in.
When to mulch: In the spring and fall (after the ground is frozen for those in the North).
How to mulch: Cover all exposed soil with 2 inches of mulch. This will help prevent runoff during heavy rains.
What to mulch with: Nutritious mulch includes dried manure (age six months before spreading), wood chips (contact your town road crews for a possible source), corncobs, leaves (just make sure they are torn up leaves so they don’t mat), grass clippings (from unsprayed lawns), pine needles, hay, stones (they retain heat—helpful in northern climates—and protect the soil from torrential rains), straw, seaweed, peat moss, sawdust, and many other natural, organic materials. Black plastic spread over the soil is used to eliminate weeds and retain the moisture of the soil, but won’t impart any nutrition to the soil.
Is green manure a mulch? Green manure is not actually a mulch, but crops that are planted in soil to protect the soil from runoff and to provide the soil with nutrients. Traditional green manure crops include clover, winter rye, or alfalfa. The crop is turned into the ground the season after it is planted. A great USDA-devised mulch system for tomatoes uses the green manure groundcover hairy vetch.
The Kitchen Garden More Vegetables Solutions 
Adapted from Straight-Ahead Organic, by Shepherd Ogden
The traditional layout for kitchen gardens was established many hundreds of years ago. Called the "four-square" design, it is based on the intersection of two major paths within a symmetrical, enclosed area; in the days before irrigation it usually included a central well or spring.
Many of the early examples of this traditional kitchen garden layout were monastic gardens, and while there were perhaps religious and symbolic reasons for the creation of this form, over the centuries its inherent efficiency has gained it a place in the secular world as well. Vegetables (and fruits and flowers and herbs) were grown in raised beds marked out by the permanent paths. The four equal-sized plots that resulted made [link] crop rotation [end link] and planning easy. The diversity of the plantings not only made balanced demands on the soil, but preserved the natural balance of the garden's animal life-small mammals, insects, amphibians, and birds-an important factor in keeping pest problems under control. American kitchen gardens have, on the whole, been much less formal. From the beginnings of colonization there has been less emphasis on strict training of the plants, but the efficiency and utility of the class four-square layout has been largely preserved. Americans have adapted, and should continue to adapt, this traditional design to the particulars of their lives and their land.
Helpful Hints:
Mulch the main access paths with a thick layer of bark, sand, or cinders-whatever is suitable, local, cheap, and environmentally responsible.
Water-Saving Tips and Garden Gadgets More Gardens Solutions 
Adapted from The New American Backyard, by Kris Medic.
Summer is lawn and garden season, when frequent watering is often a must. But with the world water supply in jeopardy, we turn our thoughts to conserving this vital resource.
Along with good watering habits, a well-chosen garden gadget or two can help you make better use of both your time and our precious water.
Good watering habits include using organic matter such as compost whenever you can, add a 2-3-inch layer of an organic mulch such as shredded bark or leaves, choose plants that don't require shearing as that causes the plant to lose water, water deeply and infrequently, water the soil not the plants, water only when needed, and water early in the day as plants are better equipped to take up water then.
Water-wise garden tools and gadgets to save water include these that are the most likely to give you the most benefit and that you might already own.
DOWNSPOUT EXTENSIONS
Use your downspouts (if you have them) as the resource that they are! While it's always a good idea to direct storm runoff away from your house foundation with a splash block, extensions can direct the water to where it's needed. Flexible extensions that roll out and sprinkle under pressure make it easy to water your foundation plants, but be prepared to unclog them regularly if your gutters collect tree debris. Use downspouts as an efficient way to fill rain barrels, too.
RAIN BARRELS
Recycling rainwater runoff that would otherwise pour out of your downspouts and be wasted couldn't be easier. Simply set a rain barrel beneath your downspouts and you'll have a free supply of water for your yard. Though the wooden ones have a rustic charm, plastic ones are more widely available.
Look for a lid to keep out debris and mosquitoes, a hose fitting that will give you easy access to the collected water, and a diverter that lets you switch back to the downspout should the rain barrel get full. Don't expect to be able to water directly from your rain barrel; gravity probably won't give enough pressure to get water through a hose. Instead, use the hose fitting to conveniently fill a watering can or your slow delivery containers.
HOSE HELPERS
For hand-watering, an extension handle, breaker, and shutoff is an inexpensive threesome that can't be beat! An extension handle (also known as a water wand) lets you get the hose end down to soil level -- where the water should go -- without having to stoop or wave a floppy hose around. Even if you could hit your mark by holding the hose at waist level, you run the risk of washing away your mulch or eroding your soil from the blast.
A water breaker fits onto the end of a hose extension handle. Its job is to break the water stream into little droplets that have less impact on your soil and mulch than a steady stream or spray from a hose nozzle would.
SLOW-DELIVERY WATERING AIDS
Hand-watering plants can mean a lot of repeat trips to thegarden, but you can avoid all this fuss, with low-tech, slow-delivery tools like plastic bottles, unglazed flowerpots, or Aqua Spikes. Punch holes in the bottom of plastic milk, water, or soft drink bottles, place them on or in the soil, and fill them with water from your hose as needed. You can use unglazed clay pots in a similar way, but they are very porous so you'll need to set them down in the soil or the water will just evaporate.
Aqua spikes are a clever invention that you can attach to inverted plastic soda bottles and turn them into handy watering devices. Fill a 2-liter bottle with water, screw on the aqua spike at the cap end, then turn the bottle upside down, and poke the spike into the soil. Each of these low-cost or recycled gadgets send water directly to your plants' root zones and are especially effective because there's little or no waste from evaporation or runoff.
SOAKER HOSES
Soaker hoses are another great inexpensive way to water your plants. When you keep the water pressure down on these porous hoses, they'll water evenly with no runoff. A soaker hose delivers water directly to plants' root zones, so a minimum is lost in the wind or water on wetting the foliage.
DRIP IRRIGATION SYSTEMS
Like soaker hoses, drip irrigations systems deliver water to the root zones of plants. Small-diameter tubing and emitters, which are fittings that drip water at an even rate, let you regulate where and how much water to use. You can purchase components at a modest price and assemble your own system.
TIMERS
Whether you use a drip system or soaker hoses to water your plants, a timer can help you to make the best use of your time and water. Timers attach inline with your hose at the spigot and automatically start your watering system during those optimal morning hours while you're busy getting the kids ready for school or rushing off to work. Timers are available in electric, battery-powered, or manual wind-up models.
Y-CONNECTORS
Y-connectors make it easy to extend your watering capabilities, letting you reach all your garden beds at once from one spigot, whether you use hoses, drip systems, sprinklers, or a combination. This handy little gadget attaches at the spigot so you run two hoses from the same spot.
Safe way to control garden pests. Plus many other organic products. 
Beneficials are insects that feed on common garden pests, like aphids and caterpillars. Beneficial insects are considered the good guys and are why gardeners are cautioned not to spray insecticides at random.
Beneficial Insects That Should be Welcome In Your Garden
Parasitoid wasps - feed on aphids, caterpillars and grubs
Lacewing larvae - feed on aphids
Ladybug larvae - feed on aphids
Ground beetles - feed on ground-dwelling pests.
Hover flies, and Robber flies - feed on many insects, including leafhoppers and caterpillars
Because insects tend to have different feeding requirements during the various stages of their development, a diversity of plant material is essential to attracting them. Although beneficial insects do feast on pest insects, there may be certain points in their life cycles when their diets are confined to nectar and pollen. So to attract these insects to your garden, you will need to provide host plants and even plants for shelter.
Diversity in both plant material and season of availability are crucial. Hedge rows used to serve this function. The trees, shrubs and weeds would leaf out sooner in the spring than cultivated crops and provide early food sources.
Hedge rows are rare today, but we could easily plant a mixed border of fruiting and flowering trees and shrubs and perennials that has something in bloom all season. This patchwork of plants would benefit your ornamentals and planting it near a vegetable garden will insure beneficials on your vegetable crops.
What You’ll Need to Provide To Attract Beneficial Insects:
Low growing plants as cover for ground beetles (thyme, rosemary, or mint)
Shady, protected areas for laying eggs
Tiny flowers for tiny wasps, like plants from the Umbelliferae family: fennel, angelica, coriander, dill, Queen Anne’s Lace, clovers, yarrow, and rue
Composite flowers (daisy and chamomile) and mints (spearmint, peppermint, or catnip) to attract predatory wasps, hover flies, and robber flies
Using Herbs As Companion Plants to Deter Pests
Companion Planting - Pairing Plants to Control the Insect Balance in Your Garden
From Marie Iannotti,
Your Guide to Gardening.
Using Herbs to Deter Insect Pests
Herbs work especially well as companion plants. They multitask by attracting beneficial insects and repelling pest insects and their fragrance and foliage make them good companions in both the vegetable garden and the ornamental border. The following list is compiled from experience and other people’s suggestions. Keep in mind that some things work in conjunction with other factors in the environment and your results might not be the same as mine. However with some tweaking here and there, you should be able to use plants to keep a better balance in your gardens.
Using Herbs As Companion Plants to Deter Pests
Aphids - Chives, Coriander,
Ants - Tansy
Asparagus Beetle - Pot Marigold
Bean Beetle - Marigold, Nasturtium, Rosemary
Cabbage Moth - Hyssop, Mint (also clothes moths), Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Southernwood, Tansy, Thyme
Carrot Fly - Rosemary, Sage
Flea Beetle - Catmint (Contains nepetalactone, an insect repellent. )
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Flies - Basil, Rue
Fruit Tree Moths - Southernwood
Japanese Beetles - Garlic & Rue (When used near roses and raspberries), Tansy
Potato Bugs - Horseradish
Mosquitoes - Basil, Rosemary
Moths - Santolina
Nematodes - Marigold (Marigolds should be established for at least 1 year before their nematode deterring properties will take effect.)
Savory, Winter - Some insect repelling qualities
Squash Bugs & Beetles - Nasturtium, Tansy
Ticks - Lavender (Also thought to repel mice and moths.)
Tomato Horn Worm - Borage, Pot Marigold
Using Companion Planting to Attract Beneficial Insects.
Books for Further Reading:
Great Garden Companions (A Companion-Planting System for a Beautiful, Chemical-Free Vegetable Garden), by Sally Jean Cunningham, Rodale Organic Living Books
Carrot Love Tomatoes, by Louise Riotte, Workman Publishing Company
"How to Get Rid of Scale Instects"
From Marie Iannotti,
Your Guide to Gardening.
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Definition:
Scale are tiny parasitic insects that adhere to plants and live off the plant’s sap. They look like bumps and are often mistaken for a disease. There are some 7,000 species of scale insect, varying greatly in color, shape and size, usually ranging from 1/16 - 1/8 inch.
Scale are usually divided into 2 groups: soft scale and armored scale. Soft scale are covered with a protective waxy substance and are somewhat easier to kill than armored scale, which secrete a hard shell over their bodies for cover. Mealybugs are also part of the scale family.
Scale eggs are laid under the female’s body. They are called crawlers when they first hatch, because the nymphs have legs at this point and crawl off to find their own spot to attach and feed. Control measures are most effective during the crawler stage.
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Different species favor different plants. Plants frequently infested with scale include: Euonymous magnolia and fruit trees and shrubs
Control of Scale
Outdoor Plants:
Treat with dormant oil in late spring, just before the leaves unfurl. Scale can overwinter as nymphs or eggs tucked away in tree bark.
If you catch the problem early, pruning infected branches is often the easiest and surest solution.
Scale are preyed on by beneficial insects like oldier beetles, lady beetles and parasitic wasps.
Indoor Plants: Remove scale by rubbing gently with a facial quality sponge dipped in rubbing alcohol. The alcohol alone should kill the scale, but the dead insects will remain on your plants and make it difficult for you to scout for new infestations. The small facial sponges, found in the cosmetic aisle, are abrasive, yet soft enough to use without scraping the plant stems.
Be sure to buy plain sponges, without cleanser or lotion in them. As always, test on a small area first, since some plants are more sensitive than others.
Examples: I mistook the orange spots on my plant for rust, but when I couldn't rub or hose them off, I knew it was scale.
Spittlebugs
From Marie Iannotti,
Your Guide to Gardening.
FREE Newsletter. Sign Up Now!
You Can Say Spittlebug, Spittle Bug or Froghopper - They're All Hard to Miss
Here’s another pest that looks worse than it is, the aptly named Spittlebug (Cercopidae Family). There are some 23,000 species of spittlebugs. Yet most gardeners have never seen one. That’s because spittlebugs are very good at hiding. That mass of froth you see on your plant isn’t there to do your plant harm. It’s a very clever cover for the spittlebug. You don’t think so? Just try and find him.
Spittlebug nymphs can turn a liquid secretion into bubbles by moving or pumping their bodies. Once the bubbles have formed, spittlebugs use their hind legs to cover themselves with the froth. The ‘spittle’ serves multiple purposes.
It shields the spittlebugs from predators
It insulates them from temperature extremes
It prevents the spittlebugs from dehydrating
Spittlebug eggs are laid in late summer and are left to over winter on plant debris.
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The eggs will hatch in early spring and go through five Instars, or stages, before becoming adults. When the nymphs originally hatch in early spring, they will attach themselves to a plant and begin feeding. They are a wingless, green creature at this point and are almost invisible inside the spittle.
Spittlebugs are related to leafhoppers, but have a broader body. The adults are dull colored tan, brown or black and about 1/8 - 1/4 inch long, with wings. They also have faces that resemble frogs and are sometimes call Froghoppers.
Damage and Control
Although spittlebug nymphs do feed on plant sap, the damage is minimal and populations are usually small, so no pesticide is necessary. A strong blast with a hose should be enough to dislodge a spittlebug nymph. They’ll be gone in a few weeks anyway. In extreme cases, they can cause stunting and weaken plants or reduce yields. If you should have a severe infestation, remove plant debris in the fall and till the soil to reduce egg population.
Junipers and pine trees are spittlebug favorites, but you’ll see them on a wide variety of plants including: strawberries, legumes and various flowers, like the goldenrod at right.
One last thought. It’s not really spittle. The liquid is actually secreted from the other end.
The Country Cottage Garden - Easy as 1, 2, 3 More Gardens Solutions
Adapted from Heirloom Country Gardens, by Sarah Wolfgang Heffner (Rodale Press, 2000).
A cottage garden is the ultimate country dream come true, where flowers mix with herbs and vegetables in colorful abandon. You’ll love cutting fresh flowers for bouquets, snipping herbs and lettuces for salad, and picking tender beans for dinner.
The real-life cottage gardens of English history were commonly mixed plantings of vegetables, fruits, and herbs, complete with honeybees, chickens, and perhaps a family pig. As time went on and living conditions became less harsh, more flowers were added to cottage gardens.
The joy of these gardens is their casual, informal appearance. They should not be overly neat and tidy! All you really have to worry about is thinning vigorous perennials every few years so that they don’t over step their boundaries! Here is a list of 20 plants to get started. Print it out and take it with you next time you go to the local garden nursery:
Sneezeweed
Honesty
(aka: Money Plant)
Feverfew
Bacherlor’s button
Hollyhock
Johnny-jump-up
Lemon lily
Golden glow
Garden phlox
Sage
Scarlet runner bean
Thymes
Dill
Borage
Mints
Peonies
Foxglove
Jasmine tobacco
Wild columbine
Bleeding heart
All-The-Time Blooming Gardens 
How-To More Gardens Solutions
Adapted from Lasagna Gardening for Small Spaces, by Patricia Lanza (Rodale Press, 2002).
Colorful blooms in our gardens renew the spirit every time we see them. But to have a garden that blooms all the time requires choosing plants for a sequence of bloom, and including some long-bloomers in each bed or grouping of containers to sustain interest during lulls in seasonal blooming.
Here are five suggestions for all-the-time bloom you may not have thought of:
Tulips and daffodils are dependable sources of bloom in spring gardens, but for color don’t plant them alone. Pair early-blooming tulips of any color--red, pink, or white--with an underplanting of blue grape hyacinths.
Dainty fern-leaf pink bleeding heart
is a great partner for late-blooming pink tulips. The bleeding heart foliage provides a lovely green backdrop for the bold tulip blossoms.
Later in the growing season, combinations of perennials, or perennials mixed with annuals, are the ticket for stunning effects.
Colorful or variegated foliage can be as exciting as flowers! For example, try miniature hostas with "Burgundy Glow" ajuga and alpine lady’s mantle in a partly shaded bed. Showy herbs work well in flower gardens. Try "Snow Bank" sweet alyssum with "Tricolor" sage.
Garden mums tend to dominate fall gardens, but there are other great fall combinations, too. For a combination of the familiar with the unusual, try "Autumn Joy" sedum with ornamental pink ribbon grass and dwarf purple asters.
Why should I garden for wildlife and certify my yard as a Backyard Wildlife Habitat site? 
1. It's fun! You'll attract beautiful songbirds, cheerful butterflies and other interesting wildlife to your yard. Watching wildlife can be fun for the whole family.
2. It's relaxing! The natural environment of your habitat will provide a peaceful place to relieve stress and unwind, day or night.
3. It makes your yard more attractive! Replacing barren lawn with beautiful wildflowers and other native plants will increase the appeal of your property and will provide a nurturing place for wildlife.
4. It nurtures and supports wildlife all year! Habitat restoration is critical for wildlife where commercial and residential development has eliminated most natural areas. Wildlife especially need your help during the cold winter months.
5. It benefits the environment! Gardening practices that help wildlife, like reducing chemicals and conserving water, also help to improve air, water and soil quality throughout your neighborhood.
6. It rewards you! NWF will recognize your dedication to creating a place for wildlife in the modern world. When your habitat is certified, you'll receive a handsome, personalized Certificate of Achievement suitable for framing, recognizing your yard as part of the National Registry of Backyard Wildlife Habitat sites. With your permission, NWF will also send a prepared press release to your local newspaper announcing your certification.
7. It expands your gardening knowledge and lets you share your love of wildlife with others! Once certified, you'll receive a subscription to the quarterly newsletter, Habitats, providing you with a steady supply of tips and projects to maintain your Backyard Wildlife Habitat site year after year.
8. If your yard is certified by the National Wildlife Federation as a Backyard Wildlife Habitat site, you are eligible to order and post an attractive yard sign(https://secure.nwf.org/backyardwildlifehabitat/certify/signOrder.cfm) to convey to your friends and neighbors your commitment to wildlife conservation and the environment.
9. As soon as you certify your yard or garden space, you will automatically become a member of National Wildlife Federation with full membership benefits, including a year's subscription to the award winning National Wildlife magazine.
What is the Backyard Wildlife Habitat™ program? 
NWF’s Backyard Wildlife Habitat™ program is helping thousands of people just like you experience wildlife right where they live. By learning how to garden with the needs of wildlife in mind, you can attract beautiful birds, delightful butterflies and other remarkable creatures to your front yard, backyard or balcony.
How do you create a backyard habitat?
NWF will guide you in creating your habitat with our FREE Backyard Wildlife Habitat Planner. This useful tool allows you to plan your habitat online, complete with a photo album, species list, and more. You may also want to visit our Habitat Shop for books and kits that will help you along the way.
With the Backyard Wildlife Habitat Planner, you progress at your own pace. Just save your personal data, and when you return to the site, you can pick up right where you left off! After completing the Planner, you’ll receive a FREE ASSESSMENT of your garden to see how “wildlife-friendly” it is.
This FREE ASSESSMENT will rate your garden on the four elements needed for a successful backyard habitat: 1) Food 2) Water 3) Cover and 4) Places for wildlife to raise young. You can use the Planner as an educational tool or as a step-by-step process toward your ultimate goal — providing a habitat for wildlife.
Your online habitat includes your own planner tools, photo album, species list, and more.
Why certify your habitat?
America’s Wildlife Need You
Habitat loss is one of the greatest threats to America’s wildlife. By creating a habitat for wildlife and certifying your yard as an official Backyard Wildlife Habitat™ site, you will be joining a national network of people who are helping to protect wildlife today and are inspiring the wildlife gardeners of tomorrow.
When you certify your yard through NWF’s Backyard Wildlife Habitat program, you’ll receive a complimentary membership to NWF, a 1-year subscription to the award-winning National Wildlife® magazine, and many other great benefits.
WEBSITE
The Blooming Lawn – 
How-To More Eco-Citizen - Outdoors Solutions
Adapted from The Blooming Lawn, by Yvette Verner (Chelsea Green Publishing, 1998).
Given a large enough area to plough, or one small enough to dig over, it is possible to begin a flowering hay meadow from scratch with appropriate supplies from a reputable wildflower seed merchant.
This method would appear to have a lot to recommend it, as you can choose your favorite flower and grass mix suitable for local conditions.
Sit back and wait for a colorful pageant unfold before your eyes.
Until recently it was very difficult to buy wildflower seeds, bulbs or plants. Now there are reliable sources where you can buy guaranteed native species, sustainably grown and collected.
Editor’s Note: If you go to google.com and put in “wildflower seeds” a number of sources of seeds show up. I was particularly interested in the variety offered by American Meadows (www.americanmeadows.com), because they offer both native varieties as well as standard wildflowers for any one region. You can turn any lawn into a meadow, the person I spoke to at the store says, in fact “people do it all the time.”
I was heartened that turning my lawn into a wildflower meadow was actually very possible. To plant you need to till, and you need one mowing a year – in the fall. The American Meadows site also provides the following seven pages of detailed instructions for how to plant your wildflower lawn:
More Trees and Shrubs Solutions 
by Hilary Stamper, Care2.com product manager and director of promotions
Why Organic?
By using pesticides and fertilizers on our lawns and gardens, we are responsible for almost 10 percent of our common water pollution.
It IS possible to have a beautiful garden and/or yard without harm to you, your family, pets, or the environment.
What is Organic Gardening?
Organic gardening involves growing plants in soil that contains organic, natural substances, uncontaminated by chemically formulated fertilizers or pesticides.
Organic gardening emphasizes a holistic approach to cultivation. Ideally, it includes animals, insects, plants and soil to produce a "sustainable" food supply.
"Sustainable" means that over time, the resources will be able to replenish themselves and thrive.
Pest reduction and soil enhancement strategies can involve attention to soil quality, beneficial insects, and barrier plants.
Why Care2 Garden Organically?
First, the health of the earth's habitat is very important.
Pesticides are poisons designed to ward off pests. Unfortunately, pesticides also harm beneficial insects, fish, and birds.
Runoff from chemical fertilizers and pesticides soaks into groundwater and washes into streams, lakes, and oceans.
This can kill whole lakes and ponds as well as all the wildlife and fish that depend on these water sources.
Bioaccumulation means that pesticides build up across the flood chain.
Animals eat other animals, incrementally accumulating pesticides in their systems.
If we stop using these toxins, we can mitigate this deadly cycle.
Second, human health is affected by non-organic gardening because pesticides are poisons designed to harm living things; using them allows killing agents to enter your immediate environment.
Some research links pesticide use to health problems ranging from mental impairment to cancer to hormonal imbalances and lowered sperm counts.
Flowering Lawns, No-Mow Lawns, Wildflower Lawns, and more More Lawns Solutions 
By Annie B. Bond, Executive Producer of Care2's Healthy Living.
A "lawn" in my town is covered with blue and blooming forget-me-nots in the spring that takes your breath away with its beauty. Every time I see it I yearn for a lawn-free lawn. I yearn for low-growing flowers that don't require mowing, and lawns that don't inspire the need for herbicides. I've found one great solution for a lovely lavender flowering groundcover that is so tough that it can even be walked-on, and can survive without much care and in most habitats. Over the years we have placed many articles relating to this quest (since I am far from alone) on care2 on all aspects of natural lawn care, such as tips for the perfect no-mow lawn, eco-friendly lawn fertilizer, and more, and they are all here:
Try this beautiful low-growing lavender ground cover to replace your lawn, inch by inch, as you are able:
Creeping Thyme For A Low, Flowering Lawn
Sometimes a lawn doesn’t make any sense. Steep slopes, rocky stretches with inadequate topsoil, and sandy soil, are all examples of difficult terrain that don’t lend themselves to uniform grass covers. Forcing a lawn in such places forces most people to search for chemical fixes that harm the ecosystem at large. Choose instead maintenance-free groundcovers!
Beautiful Alternatives to Lawns
Lawn and garden fertilizers provide nutrients that may not be supplied by the soil. But excess nitrogen and phosphorus in fertilizers can be a huge source of water pollution.
Here are some easy ways to add nutrients to your soil that are safe for the environment.
Eco-Friendly Lawn Fertilizers
Given a large enough area to plough, or one small enough to dig over, it is possible to begin a flowering hay meadow from scratch with appropriate supplies from a reputable wildflower seed merchant.
The Blooming Lawn, How-to
The gushing exhaust from lawn mowing equipment currently contributes to a staggering 30 percent of overall U.S. vehicle pollution! By the year 2001, emissions from residential lawn mowers and tractors will have been reduced by 40 percent due to an agreement between the EPA and manufacturers. While an excellent step in the right direction, manual mowers reduce emissions by a perfect 100 percent.
Manual Mowers
It's easy to convert our lawns into native prairies that will attract birds and butterflies, and provide restful beauty for the eye and spirit. After all, mowed lawns mean toxic emissions from mowers, money wasted on gasoline, the temptation to use herbicides, and many hours of work. Who needs it?
Instead, here are the simple steps for creating a beautiful, hassle-free no-mow lawn.
The Perfect No-Mow Lawn
You can have an organic lawn that is lush and lovely, and there are so many reasons to go natural--pesticides and herbicides are linked to neurotoxicity, birth defects, cancers, organ damage and more.
Find out five easy steps to maintaining a gorgeous, healthy lawn without resorting to harmful chemicals:
Five Steps to a Lush and Healthy Lawn
SAVE MONEY! - RAISE YOUR OWN VEGETABLES 
We have been paying record high prices at the grocery store and at the gas pump, and the experts have told us to expect these prices to increase throughout the summer. Due to high fuel prices, families are cutting back on their travel plans for this summer and will be spending more time in their yards. Because of this, many people are turning to vegetable gardening for enjoyment and to save money.
It was estimated a few years ago that for every dollar you spent on seed and supplies the return was 10 times that in the value of what you can produce in a garden. With today's high prices that figure is sure to be higher. A vegetable garden does not have to be large for you to save money. Even a small garden is a great way to save some money on your grocery bills. Gardening is not only a way to save money; gardening is also great exercise, a great way to get fresh five-a-day servings of vegetables, a great stress reliever and a great way to teach children and adults the joys that come of gardening.
Although it's too late to start your own peppers and tomatoes, there is still plenty of time to grow many vegetables that can be direct seeded in a garden. If you want to start off small try a salad garden. Items like lettuce, spinach, radishes, Swiss chard and endive can be grown in an area as small as 10' x 10'. If you have a slightly larger area cucumbers, summer squash and beans can be added to the mix. If you have a large area to plant, you still have plenty of time to plant sweet corn, winter squash, melons and even pumpkins.
Hint: Try adding a natural pest deterrent by adding a few marigolds to your vegetable garden. Marigolds are not only pretty, they also repel insects. They can be either transplanted or direct sown in the garden, and will also add some additional color!
PREPARING an AREA for a VEGETABLE GARDEN
Select an area in your yard that receives at least 6-8 hours of full sun. If necessary, remove any sod from the area. Next, you should have the soils pH checked. Most vegetables grow best in slightly acidic soils with a pH of 6 to 6.8. If you do not have a soil test kit, you can purchase one from Harris Seeds' catalog or website. Also, many garden centers or your Local Cooperative Extension Service will perform a soil analysis for you. If you need to adjust your soils pH this can be easily done with soil amendments. It is recommended to use Aluminum Sulfate to lower your soil's pH and Hydrated Lime to raise your soil's pH.
When the soil is dry enough to be worked, add any needed amendments and work the soil deeply with a spade or tiller. An easy way to test the soil moisture in your garden is by grabbing a handful of soil and squeezing it in your hand. If it crumbles and falls apart, the soil is dry enough to work. If the soil packs into a moist ball, it is still too moist. You should wait until it dries out some more before working the soil. Now is also a great time to work in some well rotted compost, manure or humus. Adding organic material to the soil will make it lighter, more fertile and help it to drain better. Rake the surface level and remove any debris from the garden bed. Before planting, broadcast an all purpose garden fertilizer at the recommended rate on the package and lightly rake it into the surface of the soil. Good seed bed preparation will pay off with increased yields throughout the summer.
Now you are ready to start sowing seed in the garden. Follow the recommended spacing and planting depths that are listed on the packages of seed. Sow the seed as recommended, cover the seed and moderately water the rows or areas where you planted the seed. Depending on the variety or species you planted, it can take from 6-21 days for germination to occur. After germination, thin the young seedlings to the recommended spacing on the seed package.
CARING for YOUR VEGETABLE GARDEN
Proper care of your vegetable garden during the hot summer months can pay big dividends of bountiful yields late into the fall. Watering once a week with 1" to 1½" of water is much more beneficial than a light, daily watering. A deep, weekly watering helps to promote deeper root growth, which will help to sustain the plant through hot and dry growing conditions. Fertilize your plants every 2-3 weeks with a complete fertilizer. Keep maturing fruits harvested to help insure continued production. This is particularly critical for vine crops like summer squash, cucumbers and melons. Take care not to damage the plants when harvesting the fruit. Use a sharp knife/harvest knife or pruning shears to remove the ripe fruit from the plants. Remove and destroy any diseased plants from the garden to help prevent the spread of disease to healthy plants. Keep an eye out for insect damage and/or fungal diseases and treat appropriately to control them with insecticides or fungicides.
CONTAINER VEGETABLE GARDENING
You may live in an apartment, condominium, or a home with very little yard and lack the room to grow a conventional vegetable garden. Lack of yard space should not prevent you from gardening because many types of vegetables can be easily grown in containers. If you have an area that receives six or more hours of sun, choose the right container for the crop, use a good soil mix, fertilizer and water as needed you can produce an abundance of vegetables in a small area.
Containers are available in many different sizes, shapes, and materials. No matter which type of container you choose, clay, wood, plastic, or ceramic, be sure it has an adequate number of holes in the bottom for proper drainage. Drainage is reduced when the container is set on a solid surface such as a cement patio or wood deck. Raising the container one or two inches off the surface by setting it on blocks of wood will solve this drainage problem.
The vegetable variety you want to grow will determine the size of the container to use. Most varieties that are grown in traditional gardens can be grown in containers. Shallow rooted crops like lettuce, peppers, radishes, and herbs need a container at least 12-15" inches in diameter with an eight inch soil depth. Trellises and stakes along with larger containers like half barrels and wooden tubs can be used to produce tomatoes, squash, beans, peas and cucumbers.
It is best to use a "soil less" potting mix in your containers. In addition to draining quickly, "soil less" mixes are lightweight and free from soil-borne diseases and weed seeds. These mixes can be purchased from garden centers in various sized bags. Regular fertilization applications using a complete fertilizer should be followed closely since "soil less" mixes contain little if any nutrients.
Planting and spacing requirements for most vegetables can be found on the seed package and should be followed carefully for best results. A container can only support a certain number of plants; therefore, it is important to limit the number of plants based on the container size.
Proper watering is very important for a successful container garden. Some vegetables need daily watering, depending on container size and weather conditions. The best way to water is with a watering can, watering wand, or sprayer attachment on a garden hose. Keep the soil uniformly moist and not saturated as over watering can be as harmful to the plants as under watering.
When to Start Seedlings 
More Vegetables Solutions
Adapted from Straight-Ahead Organic,by Shepherd Ogden
One of the biggest mistakes gardeners make is starting seedlings too soon.
I know gardeners in Los Angeles who harvest tomatoes in January, but north of USDA Zone 6 you shouldn’t even think of starting tomatoes until February. In USDA Zone 4 we start ours in two batches: a few in mid-March, and a larger group around the first of April. If the weather breaks early, the Marchplanting is worth it; but if spring is sow, the early seedlings just get tossed out, as they ar too big when planting season arrives. That’s why it’s a good idea to make two sowings of seed, a week or two apart. If something happens to one set, you’ve got the backup. With two plantings, a week before and a week after the theoretically ideal planting date, you’re ready ether way.
Timing Chart for Starting Seedlings
Group 1
Start 10 to 12 weeks before the frost-free date
Eggplants
Peppers
Parsley
Onions
Leeks
Perennial Herbs
Celeriac
Group 2
Start 6 to 8 weeks before the frost-free date
Tomatoes
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Basil
Lettuce
Endive
Group 3
Start 2 to 4 weeks before the frost-free date
Dill
Melons
Beans
Brussels Sprouts
Squash
Lettuce
Annual Herbs
How to Protect Your Neighborhood Land
More Eco-Citizen - Outdoors Solutions
Adapted from “What Is a Conservation Easement,” by Nancy Prosser.
Do you have open fields, a wildlife habitat, or a wetland, an especially scenic location or an historic building on your land that you want to protect? Or do you know of such places in your town?
If you do, you need to know about conservation easements. You can be a catalyst for conservation in your own community, and working to set up a conservation easement is a great project for the upcoming winter.
A conservation easement on a parcel of property will preserve it as a special place forever. A legally binding document, the restrictions on development contained in the agreement will remain no matter who owns the land in the future. Here are the steps:
I learned how to set up a conservation easement when a 26 acre farm in my town was at risk of being turned into a subdivision. If it were possible to restrict the possibility of a subdivisions and commercial use of these fields with easements, these 26 acres could be saved from development forever.
The definition of a conservation easement, by the Upper Valley Land Trust in New Hampshire, reads:
“A conservation easement is a legally enforceable agreement between the landowner and a governmental or private conservation organization wherein the landowner permanently separates certain ownership rights from a particular tract of land and the organization agrees to monitor the land for the purpose of insuring that the provisions of the agreement are honored. Most often the easements are donated, but in some instances they are bought for full or partial value.”
“Landowners grant conservation easements to protect their land from inappropriate development while retaining private ownership. A conservation easement assures the landowner that the resources values of his or her property will be protected forever, no matter who the future owners are.
“Any property of value for agriculture, forestry, recreation, water resources, wildlife habitat or for its scenic or historic qualities may be protected by means of a conservation easement.”
In addition to the long-range goal of preserving landing perpetuity, landowners can expect tax benefits as well. If the easement is a gift, it might qualify as a charitable deduction. If the easement qualifies for Current Use Assessment, the landowner’s property tax could be reduced. Land protected by a conservation easement may be sold or transferred, but the restrictions of the easement go with the transaction.
We needed to raise well over $100,000 and apply for extra large sums in grants from a state land protection agency in order to buy easements for this farmland. A private conservation council footed a tremendous fund drive. The town itself contributed funds from their land-protection fund, and many people from nearby towns who know the fields contributed to the funding of the easement as well. We succeeded! The town now owns the easements and will monitor the lands to ensure that there are no violations of the agreement, no matter who the owners may be in the future!
Better Basic Bug Spray 
More Vegetables Solutions
by Annie Berthold-Bond, Care2.com Producer, Green Living Channels
Good ol’ soap and water is one of the best and safest all-purpose insecticidal sprays you can use in your garden. Just make sure that you don’t use more soap than the recipe calls for, or you can kill the plants.
1 tablespoon liquid soap
1 gallon water
Easy Directions
Combine ingredients in a bucket. Stir to blend. Fill spray bottles with the mixture and spray infested areas.
Helpful Hints:
A friend of mine swears that Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint Liquid Castile Soap is particularly effective in this recipe.
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Homemade Insecticidal Soap 
More Pest Control Solutions
by Annie Berthold-Bond, Care2.com Producer, Green Living Channels
Soap has been used for centuries as an all-purpose pesticide. It disrupts insects’ cell membranes, and kills pests by dehydration. The key is not to use too much soap, or you’ll also kill the vegetation near the pests. If you follow the proportions of soap to water in the Soap Spray recipe, below, the vegetation should be fine.
Note: Buy a liquid soap and not a detergent. Health food stores have liquid soaps, such as
Dr. Bronner’s Pure-Castile Soaps.
Soap Spray
1 to 2 tablespoons liquid soap
1 quart water
Combine ingredients in a bucket, mix, then transfer to a spray bottle as needed.
All Purpose Pesticide Soap Spray
Strong smelling roots and spices such as
garlic,
onions,
horseradish,
ginger,
rhubarb leaves,
cayenne and other hot peppers,
are all known to repel insects.
A handful of roots and spices
Enough boiling water to cover Soap Spray (recipe, above)
Add the roots and spices to the bottom of a mason jar. Cover with the boiling water, screw on the top, and let set overnight. Strain, and add to the Soap Spray. Note that this will rot, so use it all up or freeze leftovers for another time.
Variation: Garlic Spray
Use 1 to 2 heads garlic.
Deer and rabbits hate the smell of garlic.
Aid for Cuttings
More Flowers Solutions
by Annie Berthold-Bond, Care2.com Producer, Green Living Channels
Here is a great way to help promote and nourish plant cuttings to promote quick growth.
Canadian research has demonstrated that honey is more effective for promoting root growth than the commonly used commercial chemical for this purpose. Try this recipe:
1/4 cup honey
3/4 cup boiling water
Combine boiling water and honey in a mason jar to blend the honey into the water. Cool. Place the cuttings in this solution for one to two days.
Fast, Free Butterfly Baths 
More Backyard Wildlife Solutions
Adapted from Panty Hose, Hot Peppers, Tea Bags, and More--For the Garden, by Yankee Magazine
(Rodale Press, 2006).
Butterflies are drawn to water, but only if they can wade and flit in just the shallowest of shallows. (Ever notice gatherings of butterflies on the puddles along a creek or stream?) They are also are drawn to a particular nutrient found in soils. Here’s how to provide butterflies a butterfly spa that they love so that they flock to your garden, deck, or balcony:
Make a Butterfly Landing Pad
Recycle an old Frisbee. Add marbles to the bottom for weight and landing pads (or a flat stone, a brick, or something organic and heavy that you have handy).
Sink a broken cup into the ground or into a large pot of plants on your deck or balcony. Cut up a sponge to fit into the cup or stuff in a well-rinsed net shower scrubber. Keep the cup filled with water.
Fill an old pizza or jelly roll pan with water to provide a shallow puddle on a sunny day. Line the pan with a cotton tea towel or paper towels.
Make it “For Butterflies Only”
Another way to attract butterflies is to make a small butterfly spa using a large plate, an old baking dish, or a shallow ceramic bowl. Sink the dish into the ground (preferably in a flowerbed, which is attractive as well as convenient--no mowing around it) and fill it with sand, which has absorbed or contains the salts and nutrients butterflies love. Or just toss a shovelful of dirt into the container. Wet the sand or dirt thoroughly and make sure it stays constantly damp.
Make a Butterfly Buffet
A platform feeder meant for birds works nicely for giving butterflies a buffet of bananas, watermelon, or apples. Change the fruit every day or two to keep the display presentable, although the butterflies won’t mind and would probably prefer rotting material. Swallowtails, painted ladies, and fritillaries are the most likely to visit a fruit station such as this.
How to Make Easy Bird Feeders for Young Children More Backyard Wildlife Solutions 
Adapted from Nature with Children of All Ages,
by Edith A. Sisson
(The Massachusetts Audubon Society, 1982).
Bird feeders near windows allow for indoor birdwatching. They give opportunities for close-up observation and identification of different species of birds, as well as for studying bird behavior.
When one jay aggressively chases another away, it may be a demonstration that the first jay is higher in the “peck order” than the second.
Other dramas make the bird feeder an exciting place to watch. The project of making bird feeders can be engaging and some of the ones described here are particularly messy and gloppy and seem to delight most young children.
Materials: Pine cones, peanut butter, birdseed, string, plastic disposable-type bowls, hole puncher, bird pudding*, spoons.
Procedure: Have the children make pine cone feeders by smooshing peanut butter with spoons onto the pine cones. Then roll the cone in birdseed, tie a string to the top end, and it is ready to hang outside. To make a bowl feeder, punch three holes evenly spaced around the top edge of the plastic bowl, fill the bowl with bird pudding*, and tie strings through the holes for hanging.
Three-, four-, and five-year olds enjoy making these winter treats for the birds, with some assistance from adults. Use your imagination for other easy ones suitable for young children. For instance, try using empty grapefruit or orange halves instead of bowls.
Recycle an old Christmas tree for bird use by standing it in the backyard. Hang simple feeders from its branches. Attach other items, such as stale doughnuts or sprigs from local shrubs and plants with berries or seed heads. String popcorn and cranberries together and drape the strings around the tree for an aesthetic effect and for edibility by the birds. Soften some bird pudding and smear it onto the branches. Add your own innovations, and your tree may become the gourmet bird restaurant of the area!
*Bird Pudding
Materials: One pound lard (or leftover cooking fat), one cup hot water, two cups oatmeal, one cup flour, four cups wild birdseed, large pan, mixing spoons.
Procedure: Soften the lard or fat over warm heat in the large pan. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Bird pudding can be slathered into any kind of container-type feeder. This is a messy, globby activity that delights most young children.
Vinegar for Poison Ivy 
More Lawns Solutions
by Annie Berthold-Bond, Care2.com Producer, Green Living Channels
The land around our home is overrun with poison ivy. It is everywhere; a vine has even wrapped abundantly around the tree that holds the end of the clothesline so we can't fix the rope pulley that is broken there. After a few years of passively accepting that I can't hang clothes on the line, or that various family members get terrible rashes every summer, I've decided to do something about the scourge.
I won't ever use herbicides out of concern for health and the environment, so I've been trying out various "down home" remedies. This one really works.
Before I tell you about what I've found that works, let me tell you of another alternative solution to herbides: Goats! For some reason, Spanish and Angora goat breeds absolutely love poison ivy. Make sure you get those particular breeds; most others don't like poison ivy for their main meal. I would love to have goats, but my family won't let me... !
Here is the homemade poison ivy vegetation killer spray that I've found is safe and effective:
Poison Ivy Vegetation Killer
1 cup salt
8 drops liquid detergent
1 gallon vinegar
Combine the salt and vinegar in a pan and heat to dissolve the salt. Cool the vinegar, add the detergent, and pour some of the liquid into a large spray bottle. Spray the vegetation. (You can also just pour the mixture onto the weeds.) Refill the spray bottle as necessary. Note that this formula will kill all the vegetation, so make sure that you are only spraying the plants you want to kill. If you need to use a lot of this spray, avoid spraying it near wells, as the salt can leach into your water supply.
Snare those Slugs and Snails! 
More Flowers Solutions
by Annie Berthold-Bond, Care2.com Producer, Green Living Channels
There's a scene in the latest Harry Potter movie where Harry's friend spits up slugs. Yuck! Doesn't that just sum up the way most of us feel about slugs and snails? The very thought of the slimy little things is not a pretty one, and absolutely nobody wants them ruining their garden!
Stop destructive snails and slugs from snacking on your plants, but without using poisonous baits that can threaten the health of your pets and family. Alternative methods may take just a little patience, but with a bit of perseverance you will be able to rid your garden of these pesky creatures without using harmful chemicals.
Remove slugs and snails by hand. By night, use a flashlight and follow their shiny trails to find them.
Transport them somewhere far from your garden, (not your neighbor’s garden!) or squish or drown them in a jar of soapy water.
Wearing a face mask, spread natural or agricultural-grade diatomaceous earth over the soil in flower beds or around individual plants. Diatomaceous earth cuts the slugs and causes them to dehydrate. Reapply after each rain.
Deter snails and slugs by sprinkling cayenne pepper along their paths.
Place ceramic flowerpots upside-down to attract and trap snails and slugs in the shade. Overturn them and remove the snails daily until they are gone.
Water your garden and lawn in the morning. Slugs and snails travel at night more easily through wet plants.
Growing Potted Herbs in City or Country More Gardens Solutions
Adapted from “Herbal Remedy Gardens,” by Dorie Byers (Storey Books, 1999).
Snipping off fresh herbs for a recipe from an herbal container garden in a sunny kitchen window while you are actually cooking the meal is a treat, whether you live in the city or the country. Here are some simple tricks for successful container gardening, including choosing the best soil and how to recondition plants to different environments.
Grow basil, thyme, mint, rosemary and more in your own windowsill pots. Here's how:
* Regular garden soil is not appropriate for container plantings, regardless of what type you have. Regular soil is heavier than commercial potting mixes and will compact, hindering your plants’ root growth. There are many potting mixtures available that are appropriate for container-growth herbs. Some of the less expensive mixes tend to be too heavy, but you can include combinations of additives to enhance their drainage capability, including peat, vermiculite, perlite, and compost.
* Make sure to give new plants some space for their roots and foliage to grow in your chosen container. Overcrowding can invite pest and disease problems.
* If you put your plants outside during the warmer months, when it’s time to bring your container plants inside in fall, do so gradually; the process is the reverse of hardening off plants in the spring. Know where you’re going to put the containers.; Start a couple of weeks before the first frost and gradually increase the plants’ time indoors in the space you have chosen.
* Make sure there are holes punched in the bottom of your container to give plants adequate drainage. If containers are outside, I usually do not put them in dishes; during prolonged rainy spells the dishes hold water and give the plant the same wet conditions it would have if it were in a chronically wet spot in the ground.
* Clay containers are porous and will lose moisture more quickly.
* Container plants need more frequent watering than plants in the ground.
* Container plantings need the same amount of direct sunlight as plants in herb beds.
Clay pots exposed to direct sun in the hottest part of the day can become too hot.
SWEET BASIL ROSEMARY
Make Your Own Wire Hanging Baskets - How-To More Lawn and Gardening Solutions 
Adapted from A Year On The Garden Path, by Carolyn Herriot (Earthfuture/New Society Publishers, 2006).
Cascading flowers in an array of colors against the backdrop of the earthy moss or coconut fibers commonly used in wire hanging baskets provide a natural look and healthy plants. Such container gardening is perfect when you live in a townhouse with a small patio garden, or an apartment with a balcony. Maybe you want to add interest to your front door or some color outside your window?
Learn how to make wire hanging baskets, and choose the best flowers to suit, here:
Good choices for Baskets in Full Sun: Bacopa, Felicia, geraniums, helichrysum, lobelia, lotus vine, marigolds, nemesia, petunias, scaveola, tagetes, trailing schizanthus, verbena
Good choices for Baskets in Shade: Alyssum, fibrous begonias, fuchsias, ivy geraniums, hedera, impatiens, trailing ivy, lobelia, tuberous begonias
1. Stand the wire basket in an empty pot to stabilize it.
2. Fit a small saucer in the bottom of the basket to hold a small reservoir of water, which is extremely useful in the height of summer when you go away.
3. Line the basket with a layer of sphagnum moss, or choose a synthetic liner made from coir (coconut fiber) or sheep’s wool, which are reusable and more sustainable.
Tip: Be innovative, and use bamboo leaves, fern fronds or even phormium swords as an environmentally alternative to sphagnum moss.
4. Cover the base with lightweight potting compost pressed down firmly to exclude air pockets.
5. Plant your basket in layers, starting at the lowest layer with trailing plants, use the middle layer for hanging plants, building up to the top layer for tall, upright plants.
Lay bedding plants on the compost through the wire mesh from the outside. Press down to secure roots in place. When this layer is fully planted, cover well with compost to make the next layer. Continue to fill the basket with plants followed by layers of compost to within two inches of the rim.
6. Plant the uppermost layer with taller plants such as geraniums or marigolds. (Do not overcrowd the basket, as annual plants have a naturally spreading habit.)
7. Check that the supporting chains, ring and bracket are strong enough to cope with the considerable weight of a full, watered basket.
8. To ensure displays last throughout the summer, remember to feed, water and deadhead the basket regularly. Give plants a regular watering with a potash-rich fertilizer such as liquid seaweed every week.
9. Don’t hesitate to cut back growth that trails too far. A good pruning helps plants grow bushier, and often results in a second flowering.
10. Once planted up, it’s a good idea to harden off the basket for ten days or so, leaving it outdoors during the day but protecting it from the cold at night.
Top Hummingbird Plants 
Plants That are Hummer Magnets!
Look at a backyard that has lots of hummingbirds and most likely you'll see a yard that has large, bold masses of red flowers. When these tiny birds are flying by your house, put out a "Stop Here" sign" by the use of red nectar-rich flowers. Amazing as it seems, hummingbirds can see the color red, especially a large area of it, from over a half mile away. Use a combination of feeders as well as masses of the plants below, and be the envy of your neighbors.
Provide a succession of red flowering plants, luring migrating hummingbirds to stop along their long journey, as well as keep your yard attractive to hummers during the summer and into the fall. Although feeders filled with nectar will attract many hummingbirds, other hummingbirds prefer natural nectar sources. Fill your yard with a variety of vines, shrubs, annual and perennial flowers from the lists below.
Begin by sketching your current backyard, including the existing trees, shrubs and permanent plantings of flowers and vines. Study your drawing to discover where new nectar-rich shrubs, vines, perennials and annual flowers can be located. Shrubs, when not filled with flowers, will provide perches and cover and maybe even nesting spots for the small birds. They will also act as dividers in your garden, creating multiple feeding areas, important when you have these territorial birds claiming plants and feeders as their own.
Select the red, orange, and pink flowering varieties of the plants below. Plant the vines along fences and trellises, create new flower beds, add annual and perennial flowers to window boxes, hang baskets of blooms and mass pots of them on your patio. Even if your garden is small, even if you only have a balcony in an apartment, you can have hummingbirds feeding on your flowers.
Favorite Hummingbird Plants
Common Names Beginning with A - C
Common Name
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Botanical Name
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Gardening Zones
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Anise Hyssop
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Agastache foeniculum
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Zone 7 - 11
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Autumn sage
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Salvia greggii
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Zone 7 - 10
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Bee Balm
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Monarda
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Zone 4 - 8
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Bergamot
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Monarda
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Zone 4 - 8
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Bird of Paradise
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Caesalpinia gilliesii
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Zone 8 - 11
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Bishop's hat
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Epimedium grandiflorum
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Zone 4 - 9
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Bleeding heart
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Dicentra spectabilis
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Zone 3 - 8
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Bottlebush
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Callistemon citrinus
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Zone 8 - 10
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Butterfly Bush
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Buddleia
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Zone 5 - 9
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Butterfly weed
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Asclepias tuberosa
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Zone 3 - 10
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Cannas
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Canna
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Zone 8 - 10
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Cape fuchsia
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Phygelius capensis
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Zone 7 - 9
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Cape honeysuckle
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Tecomaria capensis
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Zone 8 - 10
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Cardinal climber
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Ipomoea multifida
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Zone 6 - 11
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Cardinal flower
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Lobelia
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Zone 2 - 8
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Chaste tree
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Vitex agnus-castus
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Zone 7 - 9
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Cleveland sage
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Salvia clevelandii
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Zone 8 - 11
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Columbines
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Aquilegia
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Zone 3 - 9
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Comfrey
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Symphytum
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Zone 5 - 10
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Coral bells
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Heuchera
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Zone 3 - 8
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Coral honeysuckle
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Lonicera sempervirens
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Zone 4 - 10
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Cross vine
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Bignonia capreolata
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Zone 6 - 10
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Cypress vine
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Ipomoea quamoclit
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Zone 6 - 11
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Favorite Hummingbird Plants
Common Names Beginning with D - O
Common Name
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Botanical Name
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Gardening Zones
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Day lily
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Hemerocallis
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Zone 3 - 8
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Delphinium
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Delphinium
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Zone 3 - 7
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Double Bubblemint
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Agastache cana
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Zone 5 - 9
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Egyptian star
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Penta
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Zone 9 - 11
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Firebush
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Hamelia patens
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Zone 8 - 11
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Firecracker Plant
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Russelia equisetiformis
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Zone 5 - 9
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Fireweed
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Epilobium augustifolium
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Zone 3 - 9
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Flowering Maple
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Abutilon
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Zone 9 - 11
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Four o'clocks
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Mirabilis jalapa
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Zone 8 - 11
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Foxglove
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Digitalis
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Zone 4 - 8
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Fuchsia
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Fuchsia lycioides
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Zone 9 - 11
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Gay feather
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Liatris
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Zone 3 - 8
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Giant Hummingbird Mint
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Agastache barberi
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Zone 4 - 8
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Gladiolus
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Gladiolus
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Zone 5 - 8
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Glossy Abelia
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Abelia grandifora
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Zone 5 - 10
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Hollyhocks
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Alcea rosea
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Zone 3 - 7
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Honeysuckle
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Lonicera
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Zone 4 - 10
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Horsemint
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Monarda fistulosa
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Zone 4 - 8
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Hosta
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Hosta
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Zone 3 - 8
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Impatiens
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Impatiens
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Zone 1 - 11
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Indian Paintbrush
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Castilleja
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Zone 6 - 9
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Ipomopsis
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Ipomopsis
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Zone 4 - 11
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Iris
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Iris
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Zone 6 - 9
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Jewelweed
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Impatiens
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Zone 1 - 11
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Kalanchoe
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Kalanchoe
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Zone 9 - 11
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Lantana
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Lantana
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Zone 8 - 11
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Larkspur
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Delphinium
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Zone 3 - 7
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Liatris
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Liatris
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Zone 3 - 8
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Lilac
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Syringa vulgaris
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Zone 3 - 8
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Lily of the Nile
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Agapanthus orientalis
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Zone 6 - 8
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Mexican Cigar
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Cuphea ignea
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Zone 9 - 11
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Mexican giant hyssop
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Agastache mexicana
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Zone 8 - 11
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Mexican sage
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Salvia leucantha
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Zone 8 - 11
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Mexican sunflower
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Tithonia rotundifolia
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Zone 1 - 11
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Milkweed, Butterfly
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Asclepias tuberosa
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Zone 3 - 10
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Milkweed, Mexican
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Asclepias curassavica
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Zone 7 - 10
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Nasturtiums
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Tropaeolum
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Zone 1 - 11
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Obedient plant
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Physostegia virginiana
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Zone 2 - 9
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Favorite Hummingbird Plants
Common Names Beginning with P - Z
Common Name
|
Botanical Name
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Gardening Zones
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Pagoda Plant
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Clerodendrum speciosissimum
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Zone 10 - 11
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Penstemon
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Penstemon
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Zone 4 - 7
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Penta
|
Penta
|
Zone 9 - 11
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Peruvian lily
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Alstroemeria psittacina
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Zone 6 - 8
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Phlox
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Phlox
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Zone 4 - 8
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Pineapple sage
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Salvia elegans
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Zone 9 - 11
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Plaintain lily
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Hosta
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Zone 3 - 8
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Red hot poker
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Kniphofia uvaria
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Zone 5 - 11
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Red mint
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Stachys coccinea
|
Zone 7 - 11
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Red Morning Glory
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Ipomoea coccinea
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Zone 2 - 11
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Red sage
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Salvia splendens
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Zone 1 - 11
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Red Star Hibiscus
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Hibiscus coccineus
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Zone 6 - 11
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Red Yucca
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Hesperaloe parviflora
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Zone 5 - 8
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Rhododendron
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Rhododendron
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Zone 4 - 11
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Rose of Sharon
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Hibiscus syriacus
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Zone 5 - 9
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Salvia
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Salvia
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various
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Scarlet runner bean
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Phaseolus coccineus
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Zone 1 - 11
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Scarlet sage
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Salvia coccinea
|
Zone 1 - 11
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Shrimp plant
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Justicia brandegeana
|
Zone 9 - 10
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Skyrocket
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Ipomopsis
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Zone 4 - 11
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Snapdragon
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Antirrhinum majus
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Zone 1 - 11
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Snapdragon vine
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Asarina antirrhinifolia
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Zone 9 - 10
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Soapwort
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Saponaria ocymoides
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Zone 2 - 9
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Sword lily
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Gladiolus
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Zone 5 - 8
|
Texas betony
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Stachys coccinea
|
Zone 7 - 11
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Texas sage
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Salvia coccinea
|
Zone 1 - 11
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Tree tobacco
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Nicotiana glauca
|
Zone 1 - 11
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Tritoma
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Kniphofia uvaria
|
Zone 5 - 11
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Trumpet vine
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Campsis radicans
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Zone 4 - 9
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Turk's Cap
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Malvaviscus
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Zone 8 - 12
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Yellow Bells
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Tecoma stans
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Zone 9 - 11
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Zinnia
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Zinnia
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Zone 1 - 11
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Five Garden Pests and Five Organic Controls More Outdoor Pest Control Solutions
Adapted from Pests, by the editors of Rodale Organic Gardening.
Your garden is a natural home for insects -- a home where the door is always open. And although you may worry when you spot bugs on your prized vegetables or flowers, the fact is that many insects aren't bad guys at all! They may be in your garden to pollinate flowers or even to prey on plant pests. And most garden plants are a lot tougher than we might think. They can tolerate some insect damage and still produce lovely flowers or a good crop, which is one reason why spraying pesticides isn't necessary.
Of course, not using pesticides doesn't mean you just sit back and let the bad guys go to town in your gardens. But if you use organic techniques, such as these for aphids, cabbage loopers, cutworms, Japanese beetles, and thrips, you'll be battling destructive insects without harming beneficials, the environment, or you and your family. APHIDS
Aphids are soft, pear-shaped, and very tiny (1/16 to 3/8 inch long). Two short tubes project backward from the tip of their abdomen. Aphids have long antennae. Some types of aphids have wings, which are transparent, longer than their body, and held like a roof over their back. Aphids may be green, pink, yellowish, black, or powdery gray. Nymphs resemble adults but are smaller and wingless.
* Drench plants with strong sprays of water from a garden hose to kill aphids.
* Keep your plants as healthy as possible, and spray dormant oilto control overwintering eggs on fruit trees.
* Spray aphids with insecticidal soap, summer oil, and homemade garlic sprays.
CABBAGE LOOPERS
Cabbage looper adults are mottled gray-brown moths with a silvery, V-shaped spot in the middle of each forewing. Their wingspan is 1 ½ inches. Because they fly late in the evening, you rarely see them. Their larvae are green caterpillars with pairs of wavy, white or light yellow lines down their backs and one line along each side.
* Handpick caterpillars several times a week.
* Attract predatory and parasitic insects to the garden with pollen and nectar plants.
* At the end of the season, bury spent cabbage plants to destroy cocoons before adults emerge in the spring.
CUTWORMS
Adult cultworms are large, brownish or gray moths with 1 1/2 - inch wingspans. The larvae (which do the damage) are fat, grasy gray or dull brown caterpillars with shiny heads.
* Protect transplants by putting collars around the stems. Press the collars about 1 inch into the soil.
* Avoid the main population of cutworms by planting later in the season.
JAPANESE BEETLES
Japanese beetle adults are blocky, metallic blue-green beetles ½ inch long. They have bronze-colored wing covers and their legs are relatively long, with large claws. Beetle larvae are fat, dirty white, C-shaped grubs with brown heads, up to ¾ inch long.
* In the early morning, handpick beetles or shake them from plants onto sheets, and then drown them in a bucket of soapy water.
* Aerate the lawn with spiked sandals to kill grubs while they're close to the soil surface in late spring and early fall.
THRIPS
Adult thrips are minute -- about 1/50 to 1/25 inc long. They're yellowish brown or black and have narrow, fringed wings. They move quickly and like to hide in tight crevices in plant stems and flowers. Nyupmphs are light green or yellow and look similar to adults, but smaller.
* Spray dormant oil in early spring to control thrips attacking fruit trees.
* Use bright blue or yellow sticky traps to catch adults in greenhouses.
* Wash thrips off with a strong spray of water from your garden hose.
6 Ways to Say So Long to Slugs More Outdoor Pest Control Solutions
Adapted from Panty Hose, Hot Peppers, Tea Bags, and More - for the Garden, by the editors of Yankee Magazine (Rodale Press, 2005).
Slugs and snails are a huge problem in many gardens, especially those with tender-leaved plants that have lots of folds or large sheltering leaves low to the ground, such as lettuce, hostas, and tender seedlings. Luckily, there are many ways to stop these critters.
Try these six ways to say so long to slugs!
1. Ammonia and water. Mix equal parts nonsudsing ammonia and water in a spray bottle. Visit the garden on a rainy morning or cool evening and spray the slugs as they feed. This technique is most effective on baby slugs, which thrive in the crowns of hostas and daylilies. As an added bonus, the ammonia converts to nitrogen and acts as a foliar food for the plants (Note: Some ferns and seedlings may suffer leaf burn from this spray. Test on a single leaf first.)
2. Vinegar and water. Mix two parts vinegar and one part water in a spray bottle. Spray the mixture directly on slugs you see or as you find them under boards or in the crevices of rock gardens. Be careful not to let the spray come in contact with plant foliage.
3. Wood ashes. A ring of wood ashes from your fireplace will discourage slugs from climbing up the stems of plants. Sprinkle the ashes in a band a few inches wide, but don’t let them actually touch the stem of the plant. Caution: If your soil is alkaline, as it is in many parts of the West and Southwest, avoid putting ashes on your soil or in your compost heap. They can raise the pH even higher.
4. A window screen. Cut an old window screen into long strips at least 6 inches wide. Sink the strips 3 inches into the soil so that a fence surrounds your most vulnerable plants.
5. Clay pots. Lure slugs away from your plants to where you can find and destroy them. Set out small clay flowerpots turned upside down and propped up on one side with a flat rock. These traps are attractive enough to use in container plantings.
6. Damp cardboard, rolled-up newspaper, grapefruit rinds, or damp burlap. Position these materials around your garden to collect slugs. Gather the items each morning and destroy the slugs. Or move the slugs, “hotels” and all, to your compost pile.
Create a Garden Altar More Guidance Solutions 
Adapted from The Essence of Incense, by Diana Rosen (Storey Books, 2001).
Every moment and every event of every man’s life on earth plants something in his Soul.
--Thomas Merton
Being in nature can nourish us in so many ways every day. Creating a garden altar is one way to honor the power of nature to soothe and uplift us. It is so easy and so completely satisfying to spend a little time creating a special spot outdoors. Here are some simple, inspiring ways to begin:
A garden altar can be without any traditional religious significance but can reflect, instead, the beauty of nature herself. Consider an arrangement of treasured pebbles, a sand garden dotted with bonsai, a koi pond edged with protective grasses. Anything that touches your heart and brings you peace when you look upon it can be considered a garden altar.
Planting trees or flowers to cherish the memory of someone you love needs no altar or labeling; the quiet loveliness of a rose, the vibrant color of a hibiscus, the strength of an oak tree--any of these marvels of nature is enough to remind you of that special someone.
Statuary of Buddha, the Virgin Mary, or other religious icons can be part of a garden altar, to which you can offer morning or evening prayers or your own personal spiritual reflections.
Or consider a garden altar in remembrance of someone who loved gardening or the outdoor life. A laminated photo of her, perhaps a spade or a glove she used while gardening, or her garden clogs, can be placed among the statuary or in front of a tree planted in her honor.
Add an incense burner or ash catcher to your garden altar and light incense when you visit. The scent will carry your thoughts and prayers to the clouds. Give yourself time to relax completely. Breathe in deeply and observe a note of gratitude for the pleasures of your garden.
For a garden altar with religious icons, a natural choice would be incense such as that used by temples and churches; to remember a friend, choose the scent of her or his favorite garden flower or plant or personal fragrance. And for your personal garden altar, select a scent that matches the favorite flowers in your own garden or of places nearby that you would like to commemorate. Many incense manufacturers now have scents that echo the sea, rain, mountains, and other smells that recall nature.
TOMATO SEEDS
Tomato Cages
Welcome to Heirloom Tomatoes! 
Hundreds of varieties of great Heirloom Tomato seeds and open pollinated seeds. Heirloom tomatoes just can't be beat for their outstanding flavor. Tomatoes like Green Grape, Stupice, Green Zebra tomato, Brandywine tomatoes, Mortgage Lifter tomato, and Cherokee Purple are some of the many varieties of seeds we offer. Our website offers over 200 varieties of heirloom tomato seeds, tomato growing tips, gardening links, and seed saving information. Seed starting tips can be found by clicking the Seed Starting Tips link above. We are also offering hot pepper seeds, several varieties of lettuce, and herb specials.
Main Street Garden Seeds and Supply
Welcome To Main Street Seed and Supply -
one of the biggest little stores on the Web!
We have:
Over 150 bird feeders below our bird feeder button.
27 bird seed combinations, 14 varieties of suet cakes and 5 seed bells below our bird seed button.
12 different bird baths in a variety of colors and sizes below our bird bath button.
37 different vegetable seeds in many different varieties in our vegetable seed area.
Over 30 different varieties of flower seeds in our flower seed area.
9 varieties of grass seed for the lawn care specialist, 4 varieties of clover seed and 9 special grass seed varieties.
Stepping stones with pictures and sayings engraved in them.
Over 50 different wind chimes all viewable by you in our wind chime area.
We have many colors and sizes of gazing globes. We have gazing balls on stands and pedestals, gazing balls with statues, or to just stand alone amongst your flowers.
Statuary for garden and walkway.
Thermometers - Decorative Thermometers, sturdy construction for outdoor use. Excellent as a gift to a special friend or family member.
Sprinklers that water your yard or garden with a wag of their tails! Usefully funny!
Rain Cups
Rose Arch
Vibrasonic Mole Chaser

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